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Arduino Wearable Projects
Arduino Wearable Projects

Arduino Wearable Projects: Design, code, and build exciting wearable projects using Arduino tools

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Arduino Wearable Projects

Chapter 1. First Look and Blinking Lights

The basis for this book is the Arduino platform, which refers to three different things: software, hardware, and the Arduino philosophy. The hardware is the Arduino board, and there are multiple versions available for different needs. In this book, we will be focusing on Arduino boards that were made with wearables in mind. The software used to program the boards is also known as the Arduino IDE. IDE stands for Integrated Development Environment, which are programs used to write programs in programming code. The programs written for the board are known as sketches, because the idea aids how to write programs and works similar to a sketchpad. If you have an IDE, you can quickly try it out in code. This is also a part of the Arduino philosophy. Arduino is based on the open source philosophy, which also reflects on how we learn about Arduino. Arduino has a large community, and there are tons of projects to learn from.

First, we have the Arduino hardware, which we will use to build all the examples in this book along with different additional electronic components. When the Arduino projects started back in 2005, there was only one piece of headwear to speak of, which was the serial Arduino board. Since then, there have been several iterations of this board, and it has inspired new designs of the Arduino hardware to fit different needs. If you are familiar with Arduino for a while, you probably started out with the standard Arduino board. Today, there are different Arduino boards that fit different needs, and there are countless clones available for specific purposes. In this book, we will be using different specialized Arduino boards such as the FLORA board and Spark core board.

The Arduino software that is Arduino IDE is what we will use to program our projects. The IDE is the software used to write programs for the hardware. Once a program is compiled in the IDE, it will upload it to the Arduino board, and the processor on the board will do whatever your program says. Arduino programs are also known as sketches. The name sketches is borrowed from another open source project and software called Processing. Processing was developed as a tool for digital artists, where the idea was to use Processing as a digital sketchpad.

The idea behind sketches and other aspects of Arduino is what we call the Arduino philosophy, and this is the third thing that makes Arduino. Arduino is based on open source, which is a type of licensing model where you are free to develop you own designs based on the original Arduino board. This is one of the reasons why you can find so many different models and clones of the Arduino boards. Open source is also a philosophy that allows ideas and knowledge to be shared freely. The Arduino community has grown strong, and there are many great resources to be found, and Arduino friends to be made.

The only problem may be where to start? Books like this one are good for getting you started or developing skills further. Each chapter in this book is based on a project that will take you from the start, all the way to a finished "prototype". I call all the project prototypes because these are not finished products. The goal of this book is also for you to develop these projects further, once you have completed the chapter. As your knowledge progresses, you can develop new sketches to run on you prototypes, develop new functions, or change the physical appearance to fit your needs and preferences.

In this chapter, you will have a look at:

  • Installing the IDE
  • Working with the IDE and writing sketches
  • The FLORA board layout
  • Connecting the FLORA board to the computer
  • Controlling and connecting LEDs to the FLORA board

Wearables

This book is all about wearables, which are defined as computational devices that are worn on the body. A computational device is something that can make calculations of any sort. Some consider mechanical clocks to be the first computers, since they make calculations on time. According to this definition, wearables have been around for centuries, if you think about it. Pocket watches were invented in the 16th century, and a watch is basically as small device that calculates time. Glasses are also an example of wearable technology that can be worn on your head, which have also been around for a long time. Even if glasses do not fit our more specified definition of wearables, they serve as a good example of how humans have modified materials and adapted their bodies to gain new functionality. If we are cold, we dress in clothing to keep us warm, if we break a leg, we use crutches to get around, or even if an organ fails, we can implant a device that replicates their functionality. Humans have a long tradition of developing technology to extend the functionality of the human body.

With the development of technology for the army, health care, and professional sport, wearables have a long tradition. But in recent years, more and more devices have been developed for the consumer market. Today, we have smart watches, smart glasses, and different types of smart clothing.

In this book, we will carry on this ancient tradition and develop some wearable projects for you to learn about electronics and programming. Some of these projects are just for fun and some have a specific application. The knowledge presented in all the chapters of this book progresses from the chapter before it. We will start off slow, and the chapters will gradually become more complex both in terms of hardware and software. If you are already familiar with Arduino, you can pick any project and get started. If you find it too hard, you can always go back and take a look at the chapter that precedes it. If you're completely new to Arduino, continue reading this chapter as we will go through the installation process of the Arduino IDE and how to get started with programming.

Installing and using software

The projects in this book will be based on different boards made by the company Adafruit. Later in this chapter, we will take a look at one of these boards, called the FLORA, and explain the different parts. These boards come with a modified version of the Arduino IDE, which we will be using in the chapter. The Adafruit IDE looks exactly the same as the Arduino IDE. The FLORA board, for example, is based on the same microprocessor as the Arduino Leonardo board and can be used with the standard Arduino IDE but programmed using the Leonardo board option. With the use of the Adafruit IDE the FLORA board is properly named. In this book, we will use two other models called the Gemma and Trinket boards, which are based on a microprocessor that is different from the standard Arduino boards. The Adafruit version of the IDE comes preloaded with the necessary libraries for programming these boards, so there is no need to install them separately.

For downloading and instructions on installing the IDE, head over to the Adafruit website and follow the steps on the website:

https://learn.adafruit.com/getting-started-with-flora/download-software

Make sure to download the software corresponding to your operating system. The process for installing the software depends on your operating system. These instructions may change over time and may be different for different versions of the operating system. The installation is a very straightforward process if you are working with OS X. On Windows, you will need to install some additional USB drivers. The process for installing on Linux depends on which distribution you are using. For the latest instructions, take a look at the Arduino website for the different operating systems.

The Arduino IDE

On the following website, you can find the original Arduino IDE if you need it in the future. In this book, you will be fine sticking with the Adafruit version of the IDE, since the most common original Arduino boards are also supported. The following is the link for downloading the Arduino software: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software.

First look at the IDE

The IDE is where we will be doing all of our programming. The first time you open up the IDE, it should look like Figure 1.1:

First look at the IDE

Figure 1.1: The Arduino IDE

The main white area of the IDE is blank when you open a new sketch, and this is the area of the IDE where we will write our code later on. First, we need to get familiar with the functionality of the IDE.

At the top left of the IDE, you will find five buttons. The first one, which looks like a check sign, is the compile button. When you press this button, the IDE will try to compile the code in your sketch, and if it succeeds, you will get a message in the black window at the bottom of you IDE that should look similar to this:

First look at the IDE

Figure 1.2: The compile message window

When writing code in an IDE, we will be using what is known as a third-level programming language. The problem with microprocessors on Arduino boards is that they are very hard to communicate with using their native language, and this is why third-level languages have been developed with human readable commands. The code you will see later needs to be translated into code that the Arduino board understands, and this is what is done when we compile the code. The compile button also makes a logical check of your code so that it does not contain any errors. If you have any errors, the text in the black box in the IDE will appear in red, indicating the line of code that is wrong by highlighting it in yellow. Don't worry about errors. They are usually misspelling errors and they happen a lot even to the most experienced programmers. One of the error messages can be seen in the following screenshot:

First look at the IDE

Figure 1.3: Error message in the compile window

Adjacent to the compile button, you will find the Upload button. Once this button is pressed, it does the same thing as the compile button, and if your sketch is free from errors, it will send the code from your computer to the board:

First look at the IDE

Figure 1.4: The quick buttons

The next three buttons are quick buttons for opening a new sketch, opening an old sketch, or saving your sketch. Make sure to save your sketches once in a while when working on them. If something happens and the IDE closes unexpectedly, it does not autosave, so manually saving once in a while is always a good idea.

At the far right of the IDE you will find a button that looks like a magnifying glass. This is used to open the Serial monitor. This button will open up a new window that lets you see the communication form from, and to, the computer and the board. This can be useful for many things, which we will have a closer look at in Chapter 2, Working with Sensors.

At the top of the screen you will find a classic application menu, which may look a bit different depending on your operating system, but will follow the same structure. Under File, you will find the menu for opening your previous sketches and different example sketches that come with the IDE, as shown in Figure 1.5. Under Edit, you will find different options and quick commands for editing your code. In Sketch, you can find the same functions as in the buttons in the IDE window:

First look at the IDE

Figure 1.5: The File menu

Under Tools, you will find two menus that are very important to keep track of when uploading sketches to your board. Navigate to Tools | Board and you will find many different types of Arduino boards. In this menu, you will need to select the type of board you are working with. Under Tools | Serial port, you will need to select the USB port which you have connected to your board. Depending on your operating system, the port will be named differently. In Windows, they are named COM*. On OS X, they are named /dev/tty.****:

First look at the IDE

Figure 1.6: The Tools menu

Since there may be other things inside your computer also connected to a port, these will also show up in the list. The easiest way to figure out which port is connected to your board is to:

  1. Plug you board in to your computer using a USB cable.
  2. Then check the Serial port list and remember which port is occupied.
  3. Unplug the board and check the list again.
  4. The board missing in the list is the port where your board is connected. Plug your board back in and select it in the list. All Arduino boards connected to you computer will be given a new number.

    Tip

    In most cases, when your sketch will not upload to you board, you have either selected the wrong board type or serial port in the tools menu.

Getting to know you board

As I mentioned earlier, we will not be using the standard Uno Arduino boards in this book, which is the board most people think of when they hear Arduino board. Most Arduino variations and clones use the same microprocessors as the standard Arduino boards, and it is the microprocessors that are the heart of the board. As long as they use the same microprocessors, they can be programmed as normal by selecting the corresponding standard Arduino board in the Tools menu. In our case, we will be using a modified version of the Arduino IDE, which features the types of boards we will be using in this book. What sets other boards apart from the standard Uno Arduino boards is usually the form factor of the board and pin layout. In this book, we will be using a board called the FLORA. This board was created with wearables in mind. The FLORA is based on the same chip used in the Arduino Leonardo board, but uses a much smaller form factor and has been made round to ease the use in a wearable context. You can complete all the projects using most Arduino boards and clones, but remember that the code and construction of the project may need some modifying.

The FLORA board

In the following Figure 1.7 you will find the FLORA board:

The FLORA board

Figure 1.7: The FLORA board

The biggest difference to normal Arduino boards besides the form factor is the number of pins available. The pins are the copper-coated areas at the edge of the FLORA. The form factor of the pins on FLORA boards is also a bit different from other Arduino boards. In this case, the pin holes and soldering pads are made bigger on FLORA boards so they can be easily sewn into garments, which is common when making wearable projects. The larger pins also make it easier to prototype with alligator clips, which we will be using later on in this chapter as shown in Figure 1.10. The pins available on the FLORA are as follows, starting from the right of the USB connector, which is located at the top of the board in the preceding Figure 1.7:

The pins available on the FLORA are as follows, starting from the right of the USB connector, which is located at the top of the board in Figure 1.7:

  • 3.3V: Regulated 3.3 volt output at a 100mA max
  • D10: Is both a digital pin 10 and an analog pin 10 with PWM
  • D9: Is both a digital pin 9 and an analog pin 9 with PWM
  • GND: Ground pin
  • D6: Is both a digital pin 6 and an analog pin 7 with PWM
  • D12: Is both a digital pin 12 and an analog pin 11
  • VBATT: Raw battery voltage, can be used for as battery power output
  • GND: Ground pin
  • TX: Transmission communication pin or digital pin 1
  • RX: Receive communication pin or digital pin 0
  • 3.3V: Regulated 3.3 volt output at a 100mA max
  • SDA: Communication pin or digital pin 2
  • SCL: Clock pin or digital pin 3 with PWM

As you can see, most of the pins have more than one function. The most interesting pins are the D* pins. These are the pins we will use to connect to other components. These pins can either be a digital pin or an analog pin. Digital pins operate only in 1 or 0, which mean that they can be only On or Off. You can receive information on these pins, but again, this is only in terms of on or off.

The pins marked PWM have a special function, which is called Pulse Width Modulation. On these pins, we can control the output voltage level. The analog pins, however, can handle information in the range from 0 to 1023. As we introduce analog sensors in Chapter 2, Working with Sensors, we will look into the differences between them in more detail.

The 3.3V pins are used to power any components connected to the board. In this case, an electronic circuit needs to be completed, and that's why there are two GND pins. In order to make an electronic circuit, power always needs to go back to where it came from. For example, if you want to power a motor, you need power from a power source connected via a cable, with another cable directing the power back to the power source, or the motor will not spin.

TX, RX, SDA, and SCL are pins used for communication, which we will have a look at later on in the book in the chapters dealing with more complex sensors. The VBATT pin can be used to output the same voltage as your power source, which you connect to the connector located at the bottom of the FLORA board shown in Figure 1.7.

Other boards

In Figure 1.8 you will find the other board types we will be using in this book:

Other boards

Figure 1.8: The Gemma, Trinket and Trinket pro board

In Figure 1.8, the first one from the left is the Gemma board. In the middle, you will find the Trinket board, and to the right, you have the Trinket pro board. Both the Gemma and Trinket board are based on the ATtiny85 microprocessor, which is a much smaller and cheaper processor, but comes with limitations. These boards only have three programmable pins, but what they lack in functionality, the make up for in size. The difference between the Gemma and Trinket board is the form factor, but the Trinket board also lacks a battery connector. The Trinket Pro board runs on an Atmega328 chip, which is the same chip used on the standard Arduino board to handle the USB communication.

This chip has 20 programmable pins, but also lacks a battery connector. The reason for using different types of boards in this book is that different projects require different functionalities, and in some cases, space for adding components will be limited. Don't worry though, since all of them can be programmed in the same way.

Connecting and testing your board

In order to make sure that you have installed your IDE correctly and to ensure your board is working, we need to connect it to your computer using a USB to USB micro cable, as show in Figure 1.9:

Connecting and testing your board

Figure 1.9: USB to USB micro cable

The small connector of the cable connects to your board, and the larger connector connects to your computer. As long as your board is connected to your computer, the USB port on the computer will power your board. In Chapter 3, Bike Gloves, we will take a closer look at how to power your board using batteries.

Once your board is connected to the computer, open up your IDE and enter the following code. Follow the basic structure of writing sketches:

  1. First, declare your variables at the top of the sketch.
  2. The setup you make is the first segment of code that runs when the board is powered up.
  3. Then, add the loop function, which is the second segment of the code that runs, and will keep on looping until the board is powered off:
    int led = 7;
    
    void setup()
    {
    pinMode(led, OUTPUT);
    }
    
    void loop()
    {
    digitalWrite(led, HIGH);
    delay(1000);
    digitalWrite(led, LOW);
    delay(1000);
    }

The first line of code declares pin number 7 as an integer and gives it the name LED. An integer is a data type, and declaring the variable using the name int allows you to store whole numbers in memory. On the FLORA board, there is a small on-board LED connected to the digital pin 7. The next part is void setup(), which is one of the functions that always needs to be in your sketch in order for it to compile. All functions use curly brackets to indicate where the function starts and ends. The { bracket is used for the start, and } the bracket is used to indicated the end of the function. In void setup(), we have declared the mode of the pin we are using. All digital pins can be used as either an input or an output. An input is used for reading the state of anything connected to it, and output is used to control anything connected to the pin. In this case, we are using pin 7, which is connected to the on-board LED. In order to control this pin we need declared it as an output.

Tip

If you are using a different board, remember to change the pin number in your code. On most other Arduino boards, the onboard LED is connected to pin 13.

The void loop() function is where the magic happens. This is where we put the actual commands that operate the pins on the board. In the preceding code, the first thing we do is turn the led pin HIGH by using the digitalWrite()command. The digitalWrite() function is a built-in function that takes two parameters. The first is the number of the pin, in this case, we put in the variable led that has the value 7. The second parameter is the state of the pin, and we can use the HIGH or LOW shortcuts to turn the pin on or off, respectively.

Then, we make a pause in the program using the delay() command. The delay command takes one parameter, which is the number of milliseconds you want to pause your program for. After this, we use the same command as before to control the state of the pin, but this time we turn it LOW, which is the same as turning the pin off. Then we wait for an additional 1000 milliseconds. Once the sketch reaches the end of the loop function, the sketch will start over from the start of the same function and keep on looping until a new sketch is uploaded. The reset button is pressed on the FLORA board, or until the power is disconnected.

Now that we have the sketch ready, you can press the upload button. If everything goes as planned, the on-board LED should start to blink with a 1 second delay. The sketch you have uploaded will stay on the board even if the board is powered off, until you upload a new sketch that overwrites the old one. If you run into problems with uploading the code, remember to perform the following steps:

  • Check your code for errors or misspelling
  • Check your connections and USB cable
  • Make sure you have the right board type selected
  • Make sure your have the right USB port selected

Some notes on programming

Now that we know that your IDE and board are working, we will have a look at some more code. Programming with Arduino is a fairly straightforward process, but as with any other skill, it takes some practice. You should never feel stupid if you don't understand straightaway or if you can't get something to work as it should. This is a part of the process we call prototyping. When you prototype something, you may have a clear idea of what you want to do, but not a clear plan of how to achieve this. A big part of prototyping is the process of trial and error. If you try something and it does not work, then you try something different. A common misconception is that electronics break easily. It is true that components can break if connected the wrong way, but even breaking stuff can be helpful in the process of understanding how they work. However, it is very hard to break anything by code. Again, it is possible to break the microprocessor in most Arduino boards by uploading faulty code to them, but the IDE makes this nearly impossible since it always checks your code for errors before uploading it to the board. Microprocessors are logical in the strictest sense.

When learning to program, the most important part is to learn how to debug. Debugging is simply the process of finding where the problem is. Compile errors are the most obvious, since the IDE will let you know that your sketch contains an error somewhere. However, the IDE can only check for semantic errors and it does not know what you are trying to achieve. Your sketch might compile, but it still does not do what you want it to do. The deeper your understanding of the different commands, the faster you will become in the debugging process. In this book, I will explain the different commands as they are used in the chapters, but even if we use a lot of them, we will not cover all possible commands. If you want to learn more about all the possible commands, the Arduino website has a reference list in which you can find them (http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/HomePage). This book is aimed at readers who have some experience with programming for Arduino, and it does not include an introduction to programming. With this said, you should not feel excluded if you don't know how to program, since it should be possible to follow all the projects without a deeper understanding of programming. By following the instructions and code in this book, you should be able to create your own working version of all the projects. The following sketches are examples to get you going, which includes some of the basic functions and commands.

Tip

Note that all code that is proceeded by the use of // or /*……*/ are comments. The // (comment character) hides the line of code from the compiler, and will not be a part of the sketch. The /*……*/ (comment character) hides comments that are spread over multiple lines, where anything written in between /* and */ will be hidden from the compiler. It is good programming practice to add comments to document your code.

External LEDs and blinking

Now that we've tried a really simple example with the board by itself, it's time to add some extra components:

  • FLORA board
  • USB to USB micro cable
  • Two alligator clips
  • PCB mounted LED

Tip

Downloading the example code

You can download the example code files from your account at http://www.packtpub.com for all the Packt Publishing books you have purchased. If you purchased this book elsewhere, you can visit http://www.packtpub.com/support and register to have the files e-mailed directly to you.

In this sketch example, we will use an external LED, but if you want, you can stick with the on-board LED on the FLORA board. The LED used in following Figure 1.10 is a special surface-mounted LED that is placed on a PCB. If you are using another LED, make sure to pair it with the right resistor. In the case of the custom LED found in Figure 1.6, the resistor is mounted on a PCB (printed circuit board). These LEDs are made with wearables in mind, and you can find them in most specialized electronic stores:

External LEDs and blinking

Figure 1.10. The LED connected to the board using alligator clips

To connect the LED to the board, we used alligator clips. Alligator clips are normal wires with metal clips at the end that are great for prototyping, and work especially well with wearable Arduino boards like the FLORA. LEDs have a positive and a negative side to them. In the case of the LED in Figure 1.10, these are marked on the PCB with a + sign for the positive and a - sign for the negative side. The positive side connects to pin D12 on the FLORA board, and to complete the circuit, the negative side connects to GND.

Different speed blinking

The following sketches show how to blink the LED at different speeds, using the for loops:

int led = 12; //declares a variable called led connected to pin 12

void setup() {
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT); //declares led as an output pin
}

void loop() {
//start looping until the counter is bigger then 5
  for(int i=0; i<5; i++){
    digitalWrite(led, HIGH); //turn the led on
    delay(1000); //wait for a bit
    digitalWrite(led, LOW); //turn the led off
    delay(1000); //wait some more
  }
//start looping until the counter is bigger then 5
  for(int j=0; j<5; j++){
    digitalWrite(led, HIGH); //turn the led on
    delay(500); //wait for a bit
    digitalWrite(led, LOW); //turn the led off
    delay(500); //wait some more
  }
//start looping until the counter is bigger then 5
  for(int k=0; k<5; k++){
    digitalWrite(led, HIGH); //turn the led on
    delay(100); //wait for a bit
    digitalWrite(led, LOW); //turn the led off
    delay(100); //wait some more
  }
}

In this sketch, we use three different for loops. In the for loop, a counter, end condition, and counter increment is declared. All the counters in this sketch start on 0, and as long as the counter is smaller than 5, the for loop will keep on looping. For every time the for loop makes a loop, the counter is increased by one. Inside the for loop, the LED is first turned on and then there is a delay. The delay time is the difference between the three for loops.

Then, the LED is turned off and there is a new delay. Once the first loop has met the end condition, the second loop takes over, and so on. The for loops are good if you know you want to do a certain thing a certain number of times.

As you can see in the preceding sketch, the procedure for turning the LED on and off is the same for all of the for loops. This is a perfect opportunity to introduce a function into your code. Functions help save memory space. In the case of the sketch we are working with, memory space will not become a problem since the sketch is very small. However, as you progress, sketches will become bigger and bigger, and memory space may become a problem. Depending on the board you are using, there is a limit to how big you can make you sketches. Optimizing your code helps save space, but is also good coding practice, since it gives you a better overview of your code:

int led = 12;

void setup() {
  pinMode(led, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {
  for(int i=0; i<5; i++){
    blinkLed(1000); //call the function and add the delay time
  }
  for(int j=0; j<5; j++){
    blinkLed(500); //call the function and add the delay time
  }
  for(int k=0; k<5; k++){
    blinkLed(100); //call the function and add the delay time
  }
}

/*declares the function blinkLed and adds a parameter that needs to be included with the use of the function*/
void blinkLed(int delayTime){
digitalWrite(led, HIGH); //turn the led on
    delay(delayTime); //wait for a bit
    digitalWrite(led, LOW); //turn the led off
    delay(delayTime); //wait some more
}

The blinkLed function has been declared so it takes a parameter, which is delayTime. This variable is then used inside the function to set the speed of the blinking.

Summary

In this chapter, we have had a look at the different parts of the FLORA board and how to install the IDE. We also made some small sketches to work with the on-board LED. We made our first electronic circuit using an external LED.

In the next chapter, I will introduce you to some analog sensors that are suitable for working with wearable's. We will keep using LEDs as our output, to show how we can interact with the data gathered from the sensors, as well as how to control the intensity of the LED.

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Description

The demand for smart wearable technologies is becoming more popular day by day. The Arduino platform was developed keeping wearables, such as watches that track your location or shoes that count the miles you've run, in mind. It is basically an open-source physical computing platform based on a simple microcontroller board and a development environment in which you create the software for the board. If you're interested in designing and creating your own wearables, this is an excellent platform for you. This book provides you with the skills and understanding to create your own wearable projects. The book covers different prototyping boards which are compatible with the Arduino platform and are suitable for creating wearable projects. Each chapter of the book covers a project in which knowledge and skills are introduced gradually, making the book suitable for all kinds of readers. You begin your journey with understanding electronic components, including LEDs and sensors, to get yourself up to scratch and comfortable with different components. You will then gain hands-on experience by creating your very first wearable project, a pair of interactive bike gloves that help you cycle at night. This is followed by a project making your own funky LED glasses and a cool GPS watch. You'll also delve into other projects including creating your own keyless doorlock, wearable NFC tags, a fitness-tracking device, and a WiFi-enabled spark board. The final project is a compilation of the previous concepts used where you make your own smart watch with fitness tracking, internet-based notifications, GPS, and of course time telling.

Who is this book for?

This book is intended for readers who are familiar with the Arduino platform and want to learn more about creating wearable projects. No previous experience in wearables is expected, although a basic knowledge of Arduino programming will help.
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€189.99 billed annually
Feature tick icon Unlimited access to Packt's library of 7,000+ practical books and videos
Feature tick icon Constantly refreshed with 50+ new titles a month
Feature tick icon Exclusive Early access to books as they're written
Feature tick icon Solve problems while you work with advanced search and reference features
Feature tick icon Offline reading on the mobile app
Feature tick icon Choose a DRM-free eBook or Video every month to keep
Feature tick icon PLUS own as many other DRM-free eBooks or Videos as you like for just €5 each
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€264.99 billed in 18 months
Feature tick icon Unlimited access to Packt's library of 7,000+ practical books and videos
Feature tick icon Constantly refreshed with 50+ new titles a month
Feature tick icon Exclusive Early access to books as they're written
Feature tick icon Solve problems while you work with advanced search and reference features
Feature tick icon Offline reading on the mobile app
Feature tick icon Choose a DRM-free eBook or Video every month to keep
Feature tick icon PLUS own as many other DRM-free eBooks or Videos as you like for just €5 each
Feature tick icon Exclusive print discounts

Frequently bought together


Stars icon
Total 115.97
Arduino Wearable Projects
€36.99
Cardboard VR Projects for Android
€36.99
OpenCV By Example
€41.99
Total 115.97 Stars icon

Table of Contents

10 Chapters
1. First Look and Blinking Lights Chevron down icon Chevron up icon
2. Working with Sensors Chevron down icon Chevron up icon
3. Bike Gloves Chevron down icon Chevron up icon
4. LED Glasses Chevron down icon Chevron up icon
5. Where in the World Am I? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon
6. Hands-on with NFC Chevron down icon Chevron up icon
7. Hands-on BLE Chevron down icon Chevron up icon
8. On the Wi-fly Chevron down icon Chevron up icon
9. Time to Get Smart Chevron down icon Chevron up icon
Index Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

Customer reviews

Rating distribution
Full star icon Full star icon Full star icon Full star icon Half star icon 4.5
(2 Ratings)
5 star 50%
4 star 50%
3 star 0%
2 star 0%
1 star 0%
talking Heads Oct 02, 2015
Full star icon Full star icon Full star icon Full star icon Full star icon 5
I was a technical reviewer for this book and reading it at its full version now I can guarantee it is a great resource. During my first experiments with Arduino I had to face a lot of the stages that are analytically explained in the chapters of this book. With a little more experience now I can use this guide to advance my skills and challenge myself for more complicated systems.Moreover, this excellent guide can eliminate the frustration often experienced when playing around with tangibles and Arduino. It enhances your creativity to think beyond the technical limitations and explore the overall functionality and design of the final product. It describes all the steps from introducing the components, to resources, to programming with Arduino IDE, to soldering the connections and creating the case for the product in an uncomplicated language.I think this book is for every maker soul out there!Enjoy!
Amazon Verified review Amazon
Andreas Göransson Oct 11, 2015
Full star icon Full star icon Full star icon Full star icon Empty star icon 4
Tony has a way of explaining very technical things (like electronics) without having to dive too deep into the technical nature of the components. This book provides a solid introduction to building your own wearable electronics from a designers perspective using several different tools, platforms, and frameworks - each with their own strengths which Tony highlights in every chapter. Having read this book you will have all the means to creating your very own wearable prototypes using almost any kind of sensors and actuators.
Amazon Verified review Amazon
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FAQs

What is the delivery time and cost of print book? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

Shipping Details

USA:

'

Economy: Delivery to most addresses in the US within 10-15 business days

Premium: Trackable Delivery to most addresses in the US within 3-8 business days

UK:

Economy: Delivery to most addresses in the U.K. within 7-9 business days.
Shipments are not trackable

Premium: Trackable delivery to most addresses in the U.K. within 3-4 business days!
Add one extra business day for deliveries to Northern Ireland and Scottish Highlands and islands

EU:

Premium: Trackable delivery to most EU destinations within 4-9 business days.

Australia:

Economy: Can deliver to P. O. Boxes and private residences.
Trackable service with delivery to addresses in Australia only.
Delivery time ranges from 7-9 business days for VIC and 8-10 business days for Interstate metro
Delivery time is up to 15 business days for remote areas of WA, NT & QLD.

Premium: Delivery to addresses in Australia only
Trackable delivery to most P. O. Boxes and private residences in Australia within 4-5 days based on the distance to a destination following dispatch.

India:

Premium: Delivery to most Indian addresses within 5-6 business days

Rest of the World:

Premium: Countries in the American continent: Trackable delivery to most countries within 4-7 business days

Asia:

Premium: Delivery to most Asian addresses within 5-9 business days

Disclaimer:
All orders received before 5 PM U.K time would start printing from the next business day. So the estimated delivery times start from the next day as well. Orders received after 5 PM U.K time (in our internal systems) on a business day or anytime on the weekend will begin printing the second to next business day. For example, an order placed at 11 AM today will begin printing tomorrow, whereas an order placed at 9 PM tonight will begin printing the day after tomorrow.


Unfortunately, due to several restrictions, we are unable to ship to the following countries:

  1. Afghanistan
  2. American Samoa
  3. Belarus
  4. Brunei Darussalam
  5. Central African Republic
  6. The Democratic Republic of Congo
  7. Eritrea
  8. Guinea-bissau
  9. Iran
  10. Lebanon
  11. Libiya Arab Jamahriya
  12. Somalia
  13. Sudan
  14. Russian Federation
  15. Syrian Arab Republic
  16. Ukraine
  17. Venezuela
What is custom duty/charge? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

Customs duty are charges levied on goods when they cross international borders. It is a tax that is imposed on imported goods. These duties are charged by special authorities and bodies created by local governments and are meant to protect local industries, economies, and businesses.

Do I have to pay customs charges for the print book order? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

The orders shipped to the countries that are listed under EU27 will not bear custom charges. They are paid by Packt as part of the order.

List of EU27 countries: www.gov.uk/eu-eea:

A custom duty or localized taxes may be applicable on the shipment and would be charged by the recipient country outside of the EU27 which should be paid by the customer and these duties are not included in the shipping charges been charged on the order.

How do I know my custom duty charges? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

The amount of duty payable varies greatly depending on the imported goods, the country of origin and several other factors like the total invoice amount or dimensions like weight, and other such criteria applicable in your country.

For example:

  • If you live in Mexico, and the declared value of your ordered items is over $ 50, for you to receive a package, you will have to pay additional import tax of 19% which will be $ 9.50 to the courier service.
  • Whereas if you live in Turkey, and the declared value of your ordered items is over € 22, for you to receive a package, you will have to pay additional import tax of 18% which will be € 3.96 to the courier service.
How can I cancel my order? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

Cancellation Policy for Published Printed Books:

You can cancel any order within 1 hour of placing the order. Simply contact customercare@packt.com with your order details or payment transaction id. If your order has already started the shipment process, we will do our best to stop it. However, if it is already on the way to you then when you receive it, you can contact us at customercare@packt.com using the returns and refund process.

Please understand that Packt Publishing cannot provide refunds or cancel any order except for the cases described in our Return Policy (i.e. Packt Publishing agrees to replace your printed book because it arrives damaged or material defect in book), Packt Publishing will not accept returns.

What is your returns and refunds policy? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

Return Policy:

We want you to be happy with your purchase from Packtpub.com. We will not hassle you with returning print books to us. If the print book you receive from us is incorrect, damaged, doesn't work or is unacceptably late, please contact Customer Relations Team on customercare@packt.com with the order number and issue details as explained below:

  1. If you ordered (eBook, Video or Print Book) incorrectly or accidentally, please contact Customer Relations Team on customercare@packt.com within one hour of placing the order and we will replace/refund you the item cost.
  2. Sadly, if your eBook or Video file is faulty or a fault occurs during the eBook or Video being made available to you, i.e. during download then you should contact Customer Relations Team within 14 days of purchase on customercare@packt.com who will be able to resolve this issue for you.
  3. You will have a choice of replacement or refund of the problem items.(damaged, defective or incorrect)
  4. Once Customer Care Team confirms that you will be refunded, you should receive the refund within 10 to 12 working days.
  5. If you are only requesting a refund of one book from a multiple order, then we will refund you the appropriate single item.
  6. Where the items were shipped under a free shipping offer, there will be no shipping costs to refund.

On the off chance your printed book arrives damaged, with book material defect, contact our Customer Relation Team on customercare@packt.com within 14 days of receipt of the book with appropriate evidence of damage and we will work with you to secure a replacement copy, if necessary. Please note that each printed book you order from us is individually made by Packt's professional book-printing partner which is on a print-on-demand basis.

What tax is charged? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

Currently, no tax is charged on the purchase of any print book (subject to change based on the laws and regulations). A localized VAT fee is charged only to our European and UK customers on eBooks, Video and subscriptions that they buy. GST is charged to Indian customers for eBooks and video purchases.

What payment methods can I use? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

You can pay with the following card types:

  1. Visa Debit
  2. Visa Credit
  3. MasterCard
  4. PayPal
What is the delivery time and cost of print books? Chevron down icon Chevron up icon

Shipping Details

USA:

'

Economy: Delivery to most addresses in the US within 10-15 business days

Premium: Trackable Delivery to most addresses in the US within 3-8 business days

UK:

Economy: Delivery to most addresses in the U.K. within 7-9 business days.
Shipments are not trackable

Premium: Trackable delivery to most addresses in the U.K. within 3-4 business days!
Add one extra business day for deliveries to Northern Ireland and Scottish Highlands and islands

EU:

Premium: Trackable delivery to most EU destinations within 4-9 business days.

Australia:

Economy: Can deliver to P. O. Boxes and private residences.
Trackable service with delivery to addresses in Australia only.
Delivery time ranges from 7-9 business days for VIC and 8-10 business days for Interstate metro
Delivery time is up to 15 business days for remote areas of WA, NT & QLD.

Premium: Delivery to addresses in Australia only
Trackable delivery to most P. O. Boxes and private residences in Australia within 4-5 days based on the distance to a destination following dispatch.

India:

Premium: Delivery to most Indian addresses within 5-6 business days

Rest of the World:

Premium: Countries in the American continent: Trackable delivery to most countries within 4-7 business days

Asia:

Premium: Delivery to most Asian addresses within 5-9 business days

Disclaimer:
All orders received before 5 PM U.K time would start printing from the next business day. So the estimated delivery times start from the next day as well. Orders received after 5 PM U.K time (in our internal systems) on a business day or anytime on the weekend will begin printing the second to next business day. For example, an order placed at 11 AM today will begin printing tomorrow, whereas an order placed at 9 PM tonight will begin printing the day after tomorrow.


Unfortunately, due to several restrictions, we are unable to ship to the following countries:

  1. Afghanistan
  2. American Samoa
  3. Belarus
  4. Brunei Darussalam
  5. Central African Republic
  6. The Democratic Republic of Congo
  7. Eritrea
  8. Guinea-bissau
  9. Iran
  10. Lebanon
  11. Libiya Arab Jamahriya
  12. Somalia
  13. Sudan
  14. Russian Federation
  15. Syrian Arab Republic
  16. Ukraine
  17. Venezuela