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How-To Tutorials - IoT and Hardware

152 Articles
article-image-solving-problems-closest-good-restaurant
Packt
25 Aug 2014
16 min read
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Solving problems – closest good restaurant

Packt
25 Aug 2014
16 min read
In this article by Steven F. Lott author of Python for Secret Agents, we will use Python to meet our secret informant at a good restaurant that's a reasonable distance from our base. In order to locate a good restaurant, we need to gather some additional information. In this case, good means a passing grade from the health inspectors. Before we can even have a meeting, we'll need to use basic espionage skills to locate the health code survey results for local restaurants. (For more resources related to this topic, see here.) We'll create a Python application to combine many things to sort through the results. We'll perform the following steps: We'll start with the restaurant health score information. We need to geocode the restaurant addresses if it hasn't been done already. In some cases, geocoding is done for us. In other cases, we'll be using a web service for this. We need to filter and organize restaurants by good scores. We'll also need to use our haversine() function to compute the distance from our base. Finally, we need to communicate this to our network, ideally using a short NAC code embedded within an image that we post to a social media site. In many cities, the health code data is available online. A careful search will reveal a useful dataset. In other cities, the health inspection data isn't readily available online. We might have to dig considerably deep to track down even a few restaurants near our base of operations. Some cities use Yelp to publicize restaurant health code inspection data. We can read about the YELP API to search for restaurants on the following link: http://www.yelp.com/developers/documentation We might also find some useful data on InfoChimps at http://www.infochimps.com/tags/restaurant. One complexity we often encounter is the use of HTML-based APIs for this kind of information. This is not intentional obfuscation, but the use of HTML complicates analysis of the data. Parsing HTML to extract meaningful information isn't easy; we'll need an extra library to handle this. We'll look at two approaches: good, clean data and more complex HTML data parsing. In both cases, we need to create a Python object that acts as a container for a collection of attributes. First, we'll divert to look at the SimpleNamespace class. Then, we'll use this to collect information. Creating simple Python objects We have a wide variety of ways to define our own Python objects. We can use the central built-in types such as dict to define an object that has a collection of attribute values. When looking at information for a restaurant, we could use something like this: some_place = { 'name': 'Secret Base', 'address': '333 Waterside Drive' } Since this is a mutable object, we can add attribute values and change the values of the existing attributes. The syntax is a bit clunky, though. Here's what an update to this object looks like: some_place['lat']= 36.844305 some_place['lng']= -76.29112 One common solution is to use a proper class definition. The syntax looks like this: class Restaurant: def __init__(self, name, address): self.name= name self.address= address We've defined a class with an initialization method, __init__(). The name of the initialization method is special, and only this name can be used. When the object is built, the initialization method is evaluated to assign initial values to the attributes of the object. This allows us to create an object more succinctly: some_place= Restaurant( name='Secret Base', address='333 Waterside Drive' ) We've used explicit keyword arguments. The use of name= and address= isn't required. However, as class definitions become more complex, it's often more flexible and more clear to use keyword argument values. We can update the object nicely too, as follows: This works out best when we have a lot of unique processing that is bound to each object. In this case, we don't actually have any processing to associate with the attributes; we just want to collect those attributes in a tidy capsule. The formal class definition is too much overhead for such a simple problem. Python also gives us a very flexible structure called a namespace. This is a mutable object that we can access using simple attribute names, as shown in the following code: from types import SimpleNamespace some_place= SimpleNamespace( name='Secret Base', address='333 Waterside Drive' ) The syntax to create a namespace must use keyword arguments (name='The Name'). Once we've created this object, we can update it using a pleasant attribute access, as shown in the following snippet: some_place.lat= 36.844305 some_place.lng= -76.29112 The SimpleNamespace class gives us a way to build an object that contains a number of individual attribute values. We can also create a namespace from a dictionary using Python's ** notation. Here's an example: >>> SimpleNamespace( **{'name': 'Secret Base', 'address': '333 Waterside Drive'} ) namespace(address='333 Waterside Drive', name='Secret Base') The ** notation tells Python that a dictionary object contains keyword arguments for the function. The dictionary keys are the parameter names. This allows us to build a dictionary object and then use it as the arguments to a function. Recall that JSON tends to encode complex data structures as a dictionary. Using this ** technique, we can transform a JSON dictionary into SimpleNamespace, and replace the clunky object['key'] notation with a cleaner object.key notation. Working with HTML web services – tools In some cases, the data we want is tied up in HTML websites. The City of Norfolk, for example, relies on the State of Virginia's VDH health portal to store its restaurant health code inspection data. In order to make sense of the intelligence encoded in the HTML notation on the WWW, we need to be able to parse the HTML markup that surrounds the data. Our job is greatly simplified by the use of special higher-powered weaponry; in this case, BeautifulSoup. Start with https://pypi.python.org/pypi/beautifulsoup4/4.3.2 or http://www.crummy.com/software/BeautifulSoup/. If we have Easy Install (or PIP), we can use these tools to install BeautifulSoup. We can use Easy Install to install BeautifulSoup like this: sudo easy_install-3.3 beautifulsoup4 Mac OS X and GNU/Linux users will need to use the sudo command. Windows users won't use the sudo command. Once we have BeautifulSoup, we can use it to parse the HTML code looking for specific facts buried in an otherwise cryptic jumble of HTML tags. Before we can go on, you'll need to read the quickstart documentation and bring yourself up to speed on BeautifulSoup. Once you've done that, we'll move to extracting data from HTML web pages. Start with http://www.crummy.com/software/BeautifulSoup/bs4/doc/#quick-start. An alternative tool is scrapy. For information see http://scrapy.org. Also, read Instant Scrapy Web Mining and Scraping, Travis Briggs, Packt Publishing, for details on using this tool. Unfortunately, as of this writing, scrapy is focused on Python 2, not Python 3. Working with HTML web services – getting the page In the case of VDH health data for the City of Norfolk, the HTML scraping is reasonably simple. We can leverage the strengths of BeautifulSoup to dig into the HTML page very nicely. Once we've created a BeautifulSoup object from the HTML page, we will have an elegant technique to navigate down through the hierarchy of the HTML tags. Each HTML tag name (html, body, and so on) is also a BeautifulSoup query that locates the first instance of that tag. An expression such as soup.html.body.table can locate the first <table> in the HTML <body> tag. In the case of the VDH restaurant data, that's precisely the data we want. Once we've found the table, we need to extract the rows. The HTML tag for each row is <tr> and we can use the BeautifulSoup table.find_all("tr") expression to locate all rows within a given <table> tag. Each tag's text is an attribute, .text. If the tag has attributes, we can treat the tag as if it's a dictionary to extract the attribute values. We'll break down the processing of the VDH restaurant data into two parts: the web services query that builds Soup from HTML and the HTML parsing to gather restaurant information. Here's the first part, which is getting the raw BeautifulSoup object: scheme_host= "http://healthspace.com" def get_food_list_by_name(): path= "/Clients/VDH/Norfolk/Norolk_Website.nsf/Food-List-ByName" form = { "OpenView": "", "RestrictToCategory": "FAA4E68B1BBBB48F008D02BF09DD656F", "count": "400", "start": "1", } query= urllib.parse.urlencode( form ) with urllib.request.urlopen(scheme_host + path + "?" + query) as data: soup= BeautifulSoup( data.read() ) return soup This repeats the web services queries we've seen before. We've separated three things here: the scheme_host string, the path string, and query. The reason for this is that our overall script will be using the scheme_host with other paths. And we'll be plugging in lots of different query data. For this basic food_list_by_name query, we've built a form that will get 400 restaurant inspections. The RestrictToCategory field in the form has a magical key that we must provide to get the Norfolk restaurants. We found this via a basic web espionage technique: we poked around on the website and checked the URLs used when we clicked on each of the links. We also used the Developer mode of Safari to explore the page source. In the long run, we want all of the inspections. To get started, we've limited ourselves to 400 so that we don't spend too long waiting to run a test of our script. The response object was used by BeautifulSoup to create an internal representation of the web page. We assigned this to the soup variable and returned it as the result of the function. In addition to returning the soup object, it can also be instructive to print it. It's quite a big pile of HTML. We'll need to parse this to get the interesting details away from the markup. Working with HTML web services – parsing a table Once we have a page of HTML information parsed into a BeautifulSoup object, we can examine the details of that page. Here's a function that will locate the table of restaurant inspection details buried inside the page. We'll use a generator function to yield each individual row of the table, as shown in the following code: def food_table_iter( soup ): """Columns are 'Name', '', 'Facility Location', 'Last Inspection', Plus an unnamed column with a RestrictToCategory key """ table= soup.html.body.table for row in table.find_all("tr"): columns = [ td.text.strip() for td in row.find_all("td") ] for td in row.find_all("td"): if td.a: url= urllib.parse.urlparse( td.a["href"] ) form= urllib.parse.parse_qs( url.query ) columns.append( form['RestrictToCategory'][0] ) yield columns Notice that this function begins with a triple-quoted string. This is a docstring and it provides documentation about the function. Good Python style insists on a docstring in every function. The Python help system will display the docstrings for functions, modules, and classes. We've omitted them to save space. Here, we included it because the results of this particular iterator can be quite confusing. This function requires a parsed Soup object. The function uses simple tag navigation to locate the first <table> tag in the HTML <body> tag. It then uses the table's find_all() method to locate all of the rows within that table. For each row, there are two pieces of processing. First, a generator expression is used to find all the <td> tags within that row. Each <td> tag's text is stripped of excess white space and the collection forms a list of cell values. In some cases, this kind of processing is sufficient. In this case, however, we also need to decode an HTML <a> tag, which has a reference to the details for a given restaurant. We use a second find_all("td") expression to examine each column again. Within each column, we check for the presence of an <a> tag using a simple if td.a: loop. If there is an <a> tag, we can get the value of the href attribute on that tag. When looking at the source HTML, this is the value inside the quotes of <a href="">. This value of an HTML href attribute is a URL. We don't actually need the whole URL. We only need the query string within the URL. We've used the urllib.parse.urlparse() function to extract the various bits and pieces of the URL. The value of the url.query attribute is just the query string, after the ?. It turns out, we don't even want the entire query string; we only want the value for the key RestrictToCategory. We can parse the query string with urllib.parse.parse_qs() to get a form-like dictionary, which we assigned to the variable form. This function is the inverse of urllib.parse.urlencode(). The dictionary built by the parse_qs() function associates each key with a list of values. We only want the first value, so we use form['RestrictToCategory'][0] to get the key required for a restaurant. Since this food_table_iter () function is a generator, it must be used with a for statement or another generator function. We can use this function with a for statement as follows: for row in food_table_iter(get_food_list_by_name()): print(row) This prints each row of data from the HTML table. It starts like this: ['Name', '', 'Facility Location', 'Last Inspection'] ["Todd's Refresher", '', '150 W. Main St #100', '6-May-2014', '43F6BE8576FFC376852574CF005E3FC0'] ["'Chick-fil-A", '', '1205 N Military Highway', '13-Jun-2014', '5BDECD68B879FA8C8525784E005B9926'] This goes on for 400 locations. The results are unsatisfying because each row is a flat list of attributes. The name is in row[0] and the address in row[2]. This kind of reference to columns by position can be obscure. It would be much nicer to have named attributes. If we convert the results to a SimpleNamespace object, we can then use the row.name and row.address syntax. Making a simple Python object from columns of data We really want to work with an object that has easy-to-remember attribute names and not a sequence of anonymous column names. Here's a generator function that will build a SimpleNamespace object from a sequence of values produced by a function such as the food_table_iter() function: def food_row_iter( table_iter ): heading= next(table_iter) assert ['Name', '', 'Facility Location', 'Last Inspection'] == heading for row in table_iter: yield SimpleNamespace( name= row[0], address= row[2], last_inspection= row[3], category= row[4] ) This function's argument must be an iterator like food_table_iter(get_food_list_by_name()). The function uses next(table_iter) to grab the first row, since that's only going to be a bunch of column titles. We'll assert that the column titles really are the standard column titles in the VDH data. If the assertion ever fails, it's a hint that VDH web data has changed. For every row after the first row, we build a SimpleNamespace object by taking the specific columns from each row and assigning them nice names. We can use this function as follows: soup= get_food_list_by_name() raw_columns= food_table_iter(soup) for business in food_row_iter( raw_column ): print( business.name, business.address ) The processing can now use nice attribute names, for example, business.name, to refer to the data we extracted from the HTML page. This makes the rest of the programming meaningful and clear. What's also important is that we've combined two generator functions. The food_table_iter() function will yield small lists built from HTML table rows. The food_row_iter() function expects a sequence of lists that can be iterated, and will build SimpleNamespace objects from that sequence of lists. This defines a kind of composite processing pipeline built from smaller steps. Each row of the HTML table that starts in food_table_iter() is touched by food_row_iter() and winds up being processed by the print() function. Continuing down this path The next steps are also excellent examples of the strengths of Python for espionage purposes. We need to geocode the restaurant addresses if it hasn't been done already. In some cases, geocoding is done for us. In other cases, we'll be using a web service for this. It varies from city to city whether or not the data is geocoded. One popular geocoding service (Google) can be accessed using Python's httplib and json modules. In a few lines of code we can extract the location of an address. We'll also need to implement the haversine formula for computing the distances between two points on the globe. This is not only easy, but the code is available on the web as a tidy example of good Python programming. Well worth an agent's time to search for this code. Once we have the raw data on good restaurants close to our secret lair, we still need to filter and make the final decision. Given the work done in the previous steps, it's a short, clear Python loop that will show a list of restaurants with top health scores within short distances of our lair. As we noted above, we'll also need to communicate this. We can use steganography to encode a message into an image file. In addition to data scraping from the web, and using web services, Python is also suitable for this kind of bit-and-byte-level fiddling with the internals of a TIFF image. Every secret agent can leverage Python for gathering, analyzing and distributing information. Summary In this article we learned about different functionalities in OpenCV 3.0. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Getting Started with Python 2.6 Text Processing [article] Python 3: Building a Wiki Application [article] Python 3: Designing a Tasklist Application [article]
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Packt
21 Aug 2014
10 min read
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Choosing the airframe and propellers for your Multicopter

Packt
21 Aug 2014
10 min read
In this article by Ty Audronis, the author of Building Multicopter Video Drone, the process and thought process required to choose a few of the components required to build your multicopter will be discussed. (For more resources related to this topic, see here.) Let's dive into the process of choosing components for your multicopter. There are a ton of choices, permutations, and combinations available. In fact, there are so many choices out there that it's highly unlikely that two do it yourself (DIY) multicopters are configured alike. It's very important to note before we start this article that this is just one example. This is only an example of the thought process involved. This configuration may not be right for your particular needs, but the thought process applies to any multicopter you may build. With all these disclaimers in mind … let's get started! What kind of drone should I build? It sounds obvious, but believe it or not, a lot of people venture into a project like this with one thing in mind: "big!". This is completely the wrong approach to building a multicopter. Big is expensive, big is also less stable, and moreover, when something goes wrong, big causes more damage and is harder to repair. Ask yourself what your purpose is. Is it for photography? Videography? Fun and hobby interest? What will it carry? How many rotors should it have? There are many configurations, but three of these rotor counts are the most common: four, six, and eight (quad, hexa, and octo-copters). The knee-jerk response of most people is again "big". It's about balancing stability and battery life. Although eight rotors do offer more stability, it also decreases flight time because it increases the strain on batteries. In fact, the number of rotors in relation to flight time is exponential and not linear. Having a big platform is completely useless if the batteries only last two or three minutes. Redundancy versus stability Once you get into hexacopter and octocopters, there are two basic configurations of the rotors: redundant and independent. In an independent (or flat) configuration, the rotors are arranged in a circular pattern, equidistant from the center of the platform with each rotor (as you go around) turning in an opposite direction from the one before it. These look a lot like a pie with many slices. In a redundant configuration, the number of spars (poles from the center of the platform) is cut in half, and each has a rotor on the top as well as underneath. Usually, all the rotors on the top spin in one direction, and all rotors at the bottom spin in the opposite direction. The following image shows a redundant hexacopter (left) and an independent hexacopter (right): The advantage of redundancy is apparent. If a rotor should break or fail, the motor underneath it can spin up to keep the craft in the air. However, with less points of lift, stress on the airframe is greater, and stability is not quite as good. If you use the right guidance system, a flat configuration can overcome a failed rotor as well. For this reason (and for battery efficiency), we're going with a flat-six (independent hexacopter) configuration over the redundant, or octocopter configurations. The calculations you'll need There is an exorbitant amount of math involved in calculating just how you're going to make your multicopter fly. An entire book can be written on these calculations alone. However, the work has been done for you! There is a calculator available online at eCalc (http://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc.php?ecalc&lang=en) to calculate how well your multicopter will function and for how long, based on the components you choose. The following screenshot shows the eCalc interface: Choosing your airframe Although we've decided to go with a flat-six airframe, the exact airframe is yet to be decided. The materials, brand, and price can vary incredibly. Let's take a quick look at some specifications you should consider. Carbon fiber versus aluminum Carbon fiber looks cool, sounds even cooler, but what is it? It's exactly what it sounds like. It's basically a woven fabric of carbon strands encased in an epoxy resin. It's extremely easy to form, very strong, and very light. Carbon fiber is the material they make super cars, racing motorcycles, and yes, aircraft from. However, it's very expensive and can be brittle if it's compromised. It can also be welded using nothing more than a superglue-like substance known as C.A. glue (cyanoacrylate or Superglue). Aluminum is also light and strong. However, it's bendable and more flexible. It's less expensive, readily available, and can make an effective airframe. It is also used in cars, racing motorcycles, and aircraft. It cannot be welded easily and requires very special equipment to form it and machine it. Also, aluminum can be easier to drill, while drilling carbon fiber can cause cracks and compromise the strength of the airframe. What we care about in a DIY multicopter is strength, weight, and yes … expense. There is nothing wrong with carbon fiber (in fact, in many ways, it is superior to aluminum), but we're going with an aluminum frame as our starting point. We'll need a fairly large frame (to keep the large rotors, which we'll probably need, from hitting each other while rotating). What we really want to look at is all the stress points on the airframe. If you really think about it, the motor mounts, and where each arm attaches to the hub of the airframe are the areas we need to examine carefully. A metal plate is a must for the motor mounts. If a carbon fiber motor mount is used, a metal backplate is a must. Many a multicopter has been lost because of screws popping right through the motor mounts. The following image shows a motor mount (left) where just such a thing happened. The fix (right) is to use a backplate when encountering carbon fiber motor mounts. This distributes the stress to the whole plate (rather than a small point the size of a screwhead). Washers are usually not enough. Similarly, because we've decided to use an airframe with long arms, leverage must be taken into account on the points where the arms attach to the hub. It's very important to have a sturdy hub that cradles the spars in a way that distributes the stress as much as possible. If a spar is merely sandwiched between two plates with a couple of bolts holding it … that may not be enough to hold the spars firmly. The following image shows a properly cradled spar: In the preceding image, you'll notice that the spars are cradled so that stress in any direction is distributed across a lot of surface area. Furthermore, you'll notice 45 degree angles in the cradles. As the cradle is tightened down, it cinches the aluminum spar and deforms it along these angles. This also prevents the spars from rolling. Between this cradling and the aluminum motor mounts (predrilled for many motor types), we're going to use the Turnigy H.A.L. (Heavy Aerial Lift) hexacopter frame. It carries a 775 mm motor span (plenty of room for up to 14-inch rotors) and has a protective cover for our electronics. Best of all, this frame retails for under 70 USD at http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem. asp?idproduct=25698&aff=492101. Now that we've chosen our airframe, we know it weighs 983 grams (based on the specifications mentioned on the previous link). Let's plug this information into our calculator (refer to the following screenshot). You can see that we've set our copter to 6 rotors, our weight to 983 grams, and specified that this weight is a without Drive system (not including our motors, props, ESCs, or batteries). You can leave all of the other entries alone. These specify the environment you'd be flying in. Air density can affect the efficiency of your rotors, and temperature can affect your motors. These default settings are at your typical temperature and elevation. Unless you're flying in the desert, high elevations, or in the cold, you can leave these alone. We're after what your typical performance will be. Choosing your propellers Let's skip down to the propellers. These will usually dictate what motors you choose, and the motors dictate the ESCs, and the ESCs and motors combined will determine your battery. So, let's take a look at the drive system in that order. This is another huge point of stress. If you consider it, every bit of weight is supported by the props in the air. So, here it's very important to have strong props that cut the air well, with as little flex as possible, and are very light. Flex can produce bounce, which can actually produce harmonic vibration between the guidance system and the flexing of the props (sending your drone into uncontrolled tumbles). Does one of the materials that we've already discussed sound strong, light, and very stiff? If you're thinking carbon fiber, you're right on the money. We're going to have a lot of weight here, so we'll go with pretty large props because they'll move a whole lot more air and carbon fiber because they're strong. The larger the props, the stronger they need to be, and consequently the more powerful the motor, ESC, and battery. Before we start shopping around for parts, let's plug in stats and see what we come up with. When we look at props, there are two stats we need to look at. These are diameter and pitch. The diameter is simple enough. It's just how big the props are. The pitch is another story. The pitch is how much of pitch the blade has. The tips of a propeller are more flat in relation to the rotation. In other words, they twist. Your typical blade would have something more like a 4.7-inch pitch at 10 inches. Why? Believe it or not, these motors encounter a ton of resistance. The resistance comes from the wind, and a fully-pitched blade may sound nice, but believe it or not, propulsion is really more of a game of efficiency than raw power. It's all about the balance. There's no doubt that we'll have to adjust our power system later, so for now let's start big. We'll go with a 14-inch propeller (because it's the biggest that can possibly fit on that frame without the props touching), with a typical (for that size) 8-inch pitch. The following screenshot shows these entries in our calculator: You can see we've entered 14 for Diameter and 8 for Pitch. Our propellers will be typical two-blade props. Three- and four-blade props can provide more lift, but also have more resistance and consequently will kill our batteries faster. The PConst (or power constraint) indicates how much power is absorbed by the props. The value of 1.3 is a typical value. Each brand and size of prop may be slightly different, and unless the specific prop you choose has those statistics available … leave this alone. A value of 1.0 is a perfectly efficient propeller. This is an unattainable value. The gear ratio is 1:1 because we're using a prop directly attached to a motor. If we were using a gear box, we'd change this value accordingly. Don't hit calculate yet. We don't have enough fields filled out. It should be said that most likely these propellers will be too large. We'll probably have to go down to a 12- or even 11-inch propeller (or change our pitch) for maximum efficiency. However … this is a good place to start. Summary In this article, we discussed what are the points to keep in mind when planning to build a multicopter, such as the type of multicopter, number of rotors, and various parameters to consider when choosing the airframe and propellers. Resources for Article:   Further resources on this subject: 3D Websites [article] Managing Adobe Connect Meeting Room [article] Getting Started with Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 Hotshot [article]
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Packt
14 Aug 2014
8 min read
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Avoiding Obstacles Using Sensors

Packt
14 Aug 2014
8 min read
In this article by Richard Grimmett, the author of Arduino Robotic Projects, we'll learn the following topics: How to add sensors to your projects How to add a servo to your sensor (For more resources related to this topic, see here.) An overview of the sensors Before you begin, you'll need to decide which sensors to use. You require basic sensors that will return information about the distance to an object, and there are two choices—sonar and infrared. Let's look at each. Sonar sensors The sonar sensor uses ultrasonic sound to calculate the distance to an object. The sensor consists of a transmitter and receiver. The transmitter creates a sound wave that travels out from the sensor, as illustrated in the following diagram: The device sends out a sound wave 10 times a second. If an object is in the path of these waves, the waves reflect off the object. This then returns sound waves to the sensor. The sensor measures the returning sound waves. It uses the time difference between when the sound wave was sent out and when it returns to measure the distance to the object. Infrared sensors Another type of sensor is a sensor that uses infrared (IR) signals to detect distance. An IR sensor also uses both a transmitter and a receiver. The transmitter transmits a narrow beam of light and the sensor receives this beam of light. The difference in transit ends up as an angle measurement at the sensor, as shown in the following diagram: The different angles give you an indication of the distance to the object. Unfortunately, the relationship between the output of the sensor and the distance is not linear, so you'll need to do some calibration to predict the actual distance and its relationship to the output of the sensor. Connecting a sonar sensor to Arduino Here is an image of a sonar sensor, HC-SR04, which works well with Arduino: These sonar sensors are available at most places that sell Arduino products, including amazon.com. In order to connect this sonar sensor to your Arduino, you'll need some of those female-to-male jumper cables. You'll notice that there are four pins to connect the sonar sensor. Two of these supply the voltage and current to the sensor. One pin, the Trig pin, triggers the sensor to send out a sound wave. The Echo pin then senses the return from the echo. To access the sensor with Arduino, make the following connections using the male-to-female jumper wires: Arduino pin Sensor pin 5V Vcc GND GND 12 Trig 11 Echo Accessing the sonar sensor from the Arduino IDE Now that the HW is connected, you'll want to download a library that supports this sensor. One of the better libraries for this sensor is available at https://code.google.com/p/arduino-new-ping/. Download the NewPing library and then open the Arduino IDE. You can include the library in the IDE by navigating to Sketch | Import Library | Add Library | Downloads and selecting the NewPing ZIP file. Once you have the library installed, you can access the example program by navigating to File | Examples | NewPing | NewPingExample as shown in the following screenshot: You will then see the following code in the IDE: Now, upload the code to Arduino and open a serial terminal by navigating to Tools | Serial Monitor in the IDE. Initially, you will see characters that make no sense; you need to change the serial port baud rate to 115200 baud by selecting this field in the lower-right corner of Serial Monitor, as shown in the following screenshot: Now, you should begin to see results that make sense. If you place your hand in front of the sensor and then move it, you should see the distance results change, as shown in the following screenshot: You can now measure the distance to an object using your sonar sensor. Connecting an IR sensor to Arduino One popular choice is the Sharp series of IR sensors. Here is an image of one of the models, Sharp 2Y0A02, which is a unit that provides sensing to a distance of 150 cm: To connect this unit, you'll need to connect the three pins that are available on the bottom of the sensor. Here is the connection list: Arduino pin Sensor pin 5V Vcc GND GND A3 Vo Unfortunately, there are no labels on the unit, but there is a data sheet that you can download from www.phidgets.com/documentation/Phidgets/3522_0_Datasheet.pdf. The following image shows the pins you'll need to connect: One of the challenges of making this connection is that the female-to-male connection jumpers are too big to connect directly to the sensor. You'll want to order the three-wire cable with connectors with the sensor, and then you can make the connections between this cable and your Arduino device using the male-to-male jumper wires. Once the pins are connected, you are ready to access the sensor via the Arduino IDE. Accessing the IR sensor from the Arduino IDE Now, bring up the Arduino IDE. Here is a simple sketch that provides access to the sensor and returns the distance to the object via the serial link: The sketch is quite simple. The three global variables at the top set the input pin to A3 and provide a storage location for the input value and distance. The setup() function simply sets the serial port baud rate to 9600 and prints out a single line to the serial port. In the loop() function, you first get the value from the A3 input port. The next step is to convert it to a distance based on the voltage. To do this, you need to use the voltage to distance chart for the device; in this case, it is similar to the following diagram: There are two parts to the curve. The first is the distance up to about 15 centimeters and then the distance from 15 centimeters to 150 centimeters. This simple example ignores distances closer than 15 centimeters, and models the distance from 15 centimeters and out as a decaying exponential with the following form: Thanks to teaching.ericforman.com/how-to-make-a-sharp-ir-sensor-linear/, the values that work quite well for a cm conversion in distance are 30431 for the constant and -1.169 as the exponential for this curve. If you open the Serial Monitor tab and place an object in front of the sensor, you'll see the readings for the distance to the object, as shown in the following screenshot: By the way, when you place the object closer than 15 cm, you should begin to see distances that seem much larger than should be indicated. This is due to the voltage to distance curve at these much shorter distances. If you truly need very short distances, you'll need a much more complex calculation. Creating a scanning sensor platform While knowing the distance in front of your robotic project is normally important, you might want to know other distances around the robot as well. One solution is to hook up multiple sensors, which is quite simple. However, there is another solution that may be a bit more cost effective. To create a scanning sensor of this type, take a sensor of your choice (in this case, I'll use the IR sensor) and mount it on a servo. I like to use a servo L bracket for this, which is mounted on the servo Pas follows: You'll need to connect both the IR sensor as well as the servo to Arduino. Now, you will need some Arduino code that will move the servo and also take the sensor readings. The following screenshot illustrates the code: The preceding code simply moves the servo to an angle and then prints out the distance value reported by the IR sensor. The specific statements that may be of interest are as follows: servo.attach(servoPin);: This statement attaches the servo control to the pin defined servo.write(angle);: This statement sends the servo to this angle inValue = analogRead(inputPin);: This statement reads the analog input value from this pin distance = 30431 * pow(inValue, -1.169);: This statement translates the reading to distance in centimeters If you upload the sketch, open Serial Monitor , and enter different angle values, the servo should move and you should see something like the following screenshot: Summary Now that you know how to use sensors to understand the environment, you can create even more complex programs that will sense these barriers and then change the direction of your robot to avoid them or collide with them. You learned how to find distance using sonar sensors and how to connect them to Arduino. You also learned about IR sensors and how they can be used with Arduino. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Clusters, Parallel Computing, and Raspberry Pi – A Brief Background [article] Using PVR with Raspbmc [article] Home Security by BeagleBone [article]
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Packt
21 Jul 2014
2 min read
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Hardware configuration

Packt
21 Jul 2014
2 min read
The hardware configuration of this project is not really complex. For each motion sensor module you want to build, you'll need to do the following steps. The first one is to plug an XBee module on the XBee shield. Then, you need to plug the shield into your Arduino board, as shown in the following image: Now, you can connect the motion sensor. It has three pins: VCC (for the positive power supply), GND (which corresponds to the reference voltage level), and SIG (which will turn to a digital HIGH state in case any motion is detected). Connect VCC to the Arduino 5V pin, GND to Arduino GND, and SIG to Arduino pin number 8 (the example code uses pin 8, but you could also use any digital pin). You should end up with something similar to this image: You will also need to set a jumper correctly on the board so we can upload a sketch. On the XBee shield, you have a little switch close to the XBee module to choose between the XBee module being connected directly to the Arduino board serial interface (which means you can't upload any sketches anymore) or leaving it disconnected. As we need to upload the Arduino sketch first, you need to put this switch to DLINE, as shown in this image: You will also need to connect the XBee explorer board to your computer at this point. Simply insert one XBee module to the board as shown in the following image: Now that this is done, you can power up everything by connecting the Arduino board and explorer module to your computer via USB cables. If you want to use several XBee motion sensors, you will need to repeat the beginning of the procedure for each of them: assemble one Arduino board with an XBee shield, one XBee module, and one motion sensor. However, you only need one USB XBee module connected to your computer if you have many sensors. Summary In this article, we learned about the hardware configuration required to build wireless XBee motion detectors. We looked at Arduino R3 board, XBee module, and XBee shield and the other important hardware configuration. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Playing with Max 6 Framework [Article] Our First Project – A Basic Thermometer [Article] Sending Data to Google Docs [Article]
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Packt
07 Jul 2014
3 min read
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Baking Bits with Yocto Project

Packt
07 Jul 2014
3 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) Understanding the BitBake tool The BitBake task scheduler started as a fork from Portage, which is the package management system used in the Gentoo distribution. However, nowadays the two projects have diverged a lot due to the different usage focusses. The Yocto Project and the OpenEmbedded Project are the most known and intensive users of BitBake, which remains a separated and independent project with its own development cycle and mailing list (bitbake-devel@lists.openembedded.org). BitBake is a task scheduler that parses Python and the Shell Script mixed code. The code parsed generates and runs tasks that may have a complex dependency chain, which is scheduled to allow a parallel execution and maximize the use of computational resources. BitBake can be understood as a tool similar to GNU Make in some aspects. Exploring metadata The metadata used by BitBake can be classified into three major areas: Configuration (the .conf files) Classes (the .bbclass files) Recipes (the .bb and and .bbappend files) The configuration files define the global content, which is used to provide information and configure how the recipes will work. One common example of the configuration file is the machine file that has a list of settings, which describes the board hardware. The classes are used by the whole system and can be inherited by recipes, according to their needs or by default, as in this case with classes used to define the system behavior and provide the base methods. For example, kernel.bbclass helps the process of build, install, and package of the Linux kernel, independent of version and vendor. The recipes and classes are written in a mix of Python and Shell Scripting code. The classes and recipes describe the tasks to be run and provide the needed information to allow BitBake to generate the needed task chain. The inheritance mechanism that permits a recipe to inherit one or more classes is useful to reduce code duplication, and eases the maintenance. A Linux kernel recipe example is linux-yocto_3.14.bb, which inherits a set of classes, including kernel.bbclass. BitBake's most commonly used aspects across all types of metadata (.conf, .bb, and .bbclass). Summary In this article, we studied about BitBake and the classification of metadata. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Installation and Introduction of K2 Content Construction Kit [article] Linux Shell Script: Tips and Tricks [article] Customizing a Linux kernel [article]
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Packt
20 Jun 2014
4 min read
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Shaping a model with Meshmixer and printing it

Packt
20 Jun 2014
4 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) Shaping with Meshmixer Meshmixer was designed to provide a modeling interface that frees the user from working directly with the geometry of the mesh. In most cases, the intent of the program succeeds, but in some cases, it's good to see how the underlying mesh works. We'll use some brush tools to make our model better, thereby taking a look at how this affects the mesh structure. Getting ready We'll use a toy block scanned with 123D Catch. How to do it... We will proceed as follows: Let's take a look at the model's mesh by positioning the model with a visible large surface. Go to the menu and select View. Scroll down and select Toggle Wireframe (W). Choose Sculpt. From the pop-up toolbox, choose Brushes. Go to the menu and select ShrinkSmooth. Adjust your settings in the Properties section. Keep the size as 60 and its strength as 25. Use the smooth tool slowly across the model, watching the change it makes to the mesh. In the following example, the keyboard shortcut W is used to toggle between mesh views: Repeat using the RobustSmooth and Flatten brushes. Use these combinations of brushes to flatten one side of the toy block. Rotate your model to an area where there's heavy distortion. Make sure your view is in the wireframe mode. Go back to Brushes and select Pinch. Adjust the Strength to 85, Size to 39, Depth to -17, and Lazyness to 95. Keep everything else at default values. If you are uncertain of the default values, left-click on the small cogwheel icon next to the Properties heading. Choose Reset to Defaults. We're going to draw a line across a distorted area of the toy block to see how it affects the mesh. Using the pinch brush, draw a line across the model. Save your work and then select Undo/back from the Actions menu (Ctrl+ Z). Now, select your entire model. Go to the toolbox and select Edit. Scroll down and select Remesh (R). You'll see an even distribution of polygons in the mesh. Keep the defaults in the pop up and click on Accept. Now, go back and choose Clear Selection. Select the pinch brush again and draw a line across the model as you did before. Compare it to the other model with the unrefined mesh. Let's finish cleaning up the toy block. Click on Undo/back (Ctrl+ Z) to the pinch brush line that you drew. Now, use the pinch tool to refine the edges of the model. Work around it and sharpen all the edges. Finish smoothing the planes on the block and click on Save. We can see the results clearly as we compare the original toy block model to our modified model in the preceding image. How it works... Meshmixer works by using a mesh with a high definition of polygons. When a sculpting brush such as pinch is used to manipulate the surface, it rapidly increases the polygon count in the surrounding area. When the pinch tool crosses an area that has fewer and larger polygons, the interpolation of the area becomes distorted. We can see this in the following example when we compare the original and remeshed model in the wireframe view: In the following image, when we hide the wireframe, we can see how the distortion in the mesh has given the model on the left some undesirable texture along the pinch line: It may be a good idea to examine a model's mesh before sculpting it. Meshmixer works better with a dense polygon count that is consistent in size. By using the Remesh edit, a variety of mesh densities can be achieved by making changes in Properties. Experiment with the various settings and the sculpting brushes while in the wireframing stage. This will help you gain a better understanding of how mesh surface modeling works. Let's print! When we 3D print a model, we have the option of controlling how solid the interior will be and what kind of structure will fill it. How we choose between the options is easily determined by answering the following questions: Will it need to be structurally strong? If it's going to be used as a mechanical part or an item that will be heavily handled, then it does. Will it be a prototype? If it's a temporary object for examination purposes or strictly for display, then a fragile form may suffice. Depending on the use of a model, you'll have to decide how the object falls within these two extremes.
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Packt
16 May 2014
9 min read
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Sending Data to Google Docs

Packt
16 May 2014
9 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) The first step is to set up a Google Docs spreadsheet for the project. Create a new sheet, give it a name (I named mine Power for this project, but you can name it as you wish), and set a title for the columns that we are going to use: Time, Interval, Power, and Energy (that will be calculated from the first two columns), as shown in the following screenshot: We can also calculate the value of the energy using the other measurements. From theory, we know that over a given period of time, energy is power multiplied by time; that is, Energy = Power * Time. However, in our case, power is calculated at regular intervals, and we want to estimate the energy consumption for each of these intervals. In mathematical terms, this means we need to calculate the integral of power as a function of time. We don't have the exact function between time and power as we sample this function at regular time intervals, but we can estimate this integral using a method called the trapezoidal rule. It means that we basically estimate the integral of the function, which is the area below the power curve, by a trapeze. The energy in the C2 cell in the spreadsheet is then given by the formula: Energy= (PowerMeasurement + NextPowerMeasurement)*TimeInverval/2 Concretely, in Google Docs, you will need the formula, D2 = (B2 + B3)*C2/2. The Arduino Yún board will give you the power measurement, and the time interval is given by the value we set in the sketch. However, the time between two measurements can vary from measurement to measurement. This is due to the delay introduced by the network. To solve this issue, we will transmit the exact value along with the power measurement to get a much better estimate of the energy consumption. Then, it's time to build the sketch that we will use for the project. The goal of this sketch is basically to wait for commands that come from the network, to switch the relay on or off, and to send data to the Google Docs spreadsheet at regular intervals to keep track of the energy consumption. We will build the sketch on top of the sketch we built earlier so I will explain which components need to be added. First, you need to include your Temboo credentials using the following line of code: #include "TembooAccount.h" Since we can't continuously measure the power consumption data (the data transmitted would be huge, and we will quickly exceed our monthly access limit for Temboo!), like in the test sketch, we need to measure it at given intervals only. However, at the same time, we need to continuously check whether a command is received from the outside to switch the state of the relay. This is done by setting the correct timings first, as shown in the following code: int server_poll_time = 50; int power_measurement_delay = 10000; int power_measurement_cycles_max = power_measurement_delay/server_ poll_time; The server poll time will be the interval at which we check the incoming connections. The power measurement delay, as you can guess, is the delay at which the power is measured. However, we can't use a simple delay function for this as it will put the entire sketch on hold. What we are going to do instead is to count the number of cycles of the main loop and then trigger a measurement when the right amount of cycles have been reached using a simple if statement. The right amount of cycles is given by the power measurement cycles_max variable. You also need to insert your Google Docs credentials using the following lines of code: const String GOOGLE_USERNAME = "yourGoogleUsername"; const String GOOGLE_PASSWORD = "yourGooglePass"; const String SPREADSHEET_TITLE = "Power"; In the setup() function, you need to start a date process that will keep a track of the measurement date. We want to keep a track of the measurement over several days, so we will transmit the date of the day as well as the time, as shown in the following code: time = millis(); if (!date.running()) { date.begin("date"); date.addParameter("+%D-%T"); date.run(); } In the loop() function of the sketch, we check whether it's time to perform a measurement from the current sensor, as shown in the following line of code: if (power_measurement_cycles > power_measurement_cycles_max); If that's the case, we measure the sensor value, as follows: float sensor_value = getSensorValue(); We also get the exact measurement interval that we will transmit along with the measured power to get a correct estimate of the energy consumption, as follows: measurements_interval = millis() - last_measurement; last_measurement = millis(); We then calculate the effective power from the data we already have. The amplitude of the current is obtained from the sensor measurements. Then, we can get the effective value of the current by dividing this amplitude by the square root of 2. Finally, as we know the effective voltage and that power is current multiplied by voltage, we can calculate the effective power as well, as shown in the following code: // Convert to current amplitude_current=(float)(sensor_value-zero_ sensor)/1024*5/185*1000000; effectivevalue=amplitude_current/1.414; // Calculate power float effective_power = abs(effective_value * effective_voltage/1000); After this, we send the data with the time interval to Google Docs and reset the counter for power measurements, as follows: runAppendRow(measurements_interval,effective_power); power_measurement_cycles = 0; Let's quickly go into the details of this function. It starts by declaring the type of Temboo library we want to use, as follows: TembooChoreo AppendRowChoreo; Start with the following line of code: AppendRowChoreo.begin(); We then need to set the data that concerns your Google account, for example, the username, as follows: AppendRowChoreo.addInput("Username", GOOGLE_USERNAME); The actual formatting of the data is done with the following line of code: data = data + timeString + "," + String(interval) + "," + String(effectiveValue); Here, interval is the time interval between two measurements, and effectiveValue is the value of the measured power that we want to log on to Google Docs. The Choreo is then executed with the following line of code: AppendRowChoreo.run(); Finally, we do this after every 50 milliseconds and get an increment to the power measurement counter each time, as follows: delay(server_poll_time); power_measurement_cycles++; The complete code is available at https://github.com/openhomeautomation/geeky-projects-yun/tree/master/chapter2/energy_log. The code for this part is complete. You can now upload the sketch and after that, open the Google Docs spreadsheet and then just wait until the first measurement arrives. The following screenshot shows the first measurement I got: After a few moments, I got several measurements logged on my Google Docs spreadsheet. I also played a bit with the lamp control by switching it on and off so that we can actually see changes in the measured data. The following screenshot shows the first few measurements: It's good to have some data logged in the spreadsheet, but it is even better to display this data in a graph. I used the built-in plotting capabilities of Google Docs to plot the power consumption over time on a graph, as shown in the following screenshot: Using the same kind of graph, you can also plot the calculated energy consumption data over time, as shown in the following screenshot: From the data you get in this Google Docs spreadsheet, it is also quite easy to get other interesting data. You can, for example, estimate the total energy consumption over time and the price that it will cost you. The first step is to calculate the sum of the energy consumption column using the integrated sum functionality of Google Docs. Then, you have the energy consumption in Joules, but that's not what the electricity company usually charges you for. Instead, they use kWh, which is basically the Joule value divided by 3,600,000. The last thing we need is the price of a single kWh. Of course, this will depend on the country you're living in, but at the time of writing this article, the price in the USA was approximately $0.16 per kWh. To get the total price, you then just need to multiply the total energy consumption in kWh with the price per kWh. This is the result with the data I recorded. Of course, as I only took a short sample of data, it cost me nearly nothing in the end, as shown in the following screenshot: You can also estimate the on/off time of the device you are measuring. For this purpose, I simply added an additional column next to Energy named On/Off. I simply used the formula =IF(C2<2;0;1). It means that if the power is less than 2W, we count it as an off state; otherwise, we count it as an on state. I didn't set the condition to 0W to count it as an off state because of the small fluctuations over time from the current sensor. Then, when you have this data about the different on/off states, it's quite simple to count the number of occurrences of each state, for example, on states, using =COUNTIF(E:E,"1"). I applied these formulas in my Google Docs spreadsheet, and the following screenshot is the result with the sample data I recorded: It is also very convenient to represent this data in a graph. For this, I used a pie chart, which I believe is the most adaptable graph for this kind of data. The following screenshot is what I got with my measurements: With the preceding kind of chart, you can compare the usage of a given lamp from day to day, for example, to know whether you have left the lights on when you are not there. Summary In this article, we learned to send data to Google docs, measure the energy consumption, and store this data to the Web. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Home Security by BeagleBone [Article] Playing with Max 6 Framework [Article] Our First Project – A Basic Thermometer [Article]
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Packt
15 May 2014
3 min read
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Case study – modifying a GoPro wrench

Packt
15 May 2014
3 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) Simply scaling the model is easy to achieve with other programs like Netfabb (www.netfabb.com) or your desktop printer's slicing program. Scaling would make the handle longer, but would also proportionally increase the size of the wrench head, making it too large for its purpose. Using SketchUp she easily lengthened just the handle. She downloaded the .stl file and opened it in SketchUp. Since she prefers using SketchUp 8, she didn't have the option to merge coplanar faces; the model came in triangulated, which is normal for .stl files. It looked like the following diagram: Kim checked the dimensions of the imported wrench right away, to see if they made sense with the size of her GoPro. Fortunately, they were correct. If not, she would have gone back to ensure the units were correct in the Import Options, or scaled the model using the Tape Measure tool. Since it's harder to work with triangulated models, Kim used the CleanUp extension to remove the unnecessary lines. The link to CleanUp is http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/cleanup%C2%B3. After running the extension with the Erase Stray Edges option checked, the model looks like the following diagram: To extend the handle, Kim selected all the edges and faces that form the handle end. This is quickly achieved using the Select tool and a left-to-right selection box, as shown in the following diagram: Next, Kim got the Move tool and moved the selected entities along the Green (Y) direction until the handle was as long as she wanted. She used the Tape Measure tool to check the length. The following diagram shows the lengthened handle: Kim noticed that she can save some weight in the final part by removing some material. Using the Offset tool, she creates a new face in the center of the wrench head, as shown in the following diagram: She also used the Eraser tool to clean up the extra lines created by the Offset operation, as shown in the following diagram. Leaving the extra lines would prevent her final model from becoming solid. Using the Push-Pull tool to push the new face through to the back of the model, a neat hole is formed as shown in the following image: Kim noticed the opportunity to reduce material in the handle as well, so she used the Rectangle tool to create two faces on top of the handle, and the Push-Pull tool to create the holes. Kim was happy at this point, and exported the model as .STL for 3D printing. The following diagram shows how the final model looks: Summary In this article, we learned some time-saving techniques such as how to save components for later use and how to use different tools in 3D printable models. We also discussed the editing of downloaded models to perfectly suit your needs. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: 3D Printing [Article] Walkthrough Tools within SketchUp 7.1 [Article] Creating a 3D world to roam in [Article]
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Packt
11 Apr 2014
5 min read
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Creating a 3D world to roam in

Packt
11 Apr 2014
5 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) We may be able to create models and objects within our 3D space, as well as generate backgrounds, but we may also want to create a more interesting environment within which to place them. 3D terrain maps provide an elegant way to define very complex landscapes. The terrain is defined using a grayscale image to set the elevation of the land. The following example shows how we can define our own landscape and simulate flying over it, or even walk on its surface: A 3D landscape generated from a terrain map Getting ready You will need to place the Map.png file in the pi3d/textures directory of the Pi3D library. Alternatively, you can use one of the elevation maps already present—replace the reference to Map.png for another one of the elevation maps, such as testislands.jpg. How to do it… Create the following 3dWorld.py script: #!/usr/bin/python3 from __future__ import absolute_import, division from __future__ import print_function, unicode_literals """ An example of generating a 3D environment using a elevation map """ from math import sin, cos, radians import demo import pi3d DISPLAY = pi3d.Display.create(x=50, y=50) #capture mouse and key presses inputs=pi3d.InputEvents() def limit(value,min,max): if (value < min): value = min elif (value > max): value = max return value def main(): CAMERA = pi3d.Camera.instance() tex = pi3d.Texture("textures/grass.jpg") flatsh = pi3d.Shader("uv_flat") # Create elevation map mapwidth,mapdepth,mapheight=200.0,200.0,50.0 mymap = pi3d.ElevationMap("textures/Map.png", width=mapwidth, depth=mapdepth, height=mapheight, divx=128, divy=128, ntiles=20) mymap.set_draw_details(flatsh, [tex], 1.0, 1.0) rot = 0.0 # rotation of camera tilt = 0.0 # tilt of camera height = 20 viewhight = 4 sky = 200 xm,ym,zm = 0.0,height,0.0 onGround = False # main display loop while DISPLAY.loop_running() and not inputs.key_state("KEY_ESC"): inputs.do_input_events() #Note:Some mice devices will be located on #get_mouse_movement(1) or (2) etc. mx,my,mv,mh,md=inputs.get_mouse_movement() rot -= (mx)*0.2 tilt -= (my)*0.2 CAMERA.reset() CAMERA.rotate(-tilt, rot, 0) CAMERA.position((xm,ym,zm)) mymap.draw() if inputs.key_state("KEY_W"): xm -= sin(radians(rot)) zm += cos(radians(rot)) elif inputs.key_state("KEY_S"): xm += sin(radians(rot)) zm -= cos(radians(rot)) elif inputs.key_state("KEY_R"): ym += 2 onGround = False elif inputs.key_state("KEY_T"): ym -= 2 ym-=0.1 #Float down! #Limit the movement xm=limit(xm,-(mapwidth/2),mapwidth/2) zm=limit(zm,-(mapdepth/2),mapdepth/2) if ym >= sky: ym = sky #Check onGround ground = mymap.calcHeight(xm, zm) + viewhight if (onGround == True) or (ym <= ground): ym = mymap.calcHeight(xm, zm) + viewhight onGround = True try: main() finally: inputs.release() DISPLAY.destroy() print("Closed Everything. END") #End How it works… Once we have defined the display, camera, textures, and shaders that we are going to use, we can define the ElevationMap object. It works by assigning a height to the terrain image based on the pixel value of selected points of the image. For example, a single line of an image will provide a slice of the ElevationMap object and a row of elevation points on the 3D surface. Mapping the map.png pixel shade to the terrain height We create an ElevationMap object by providing the filename of the image we will use for the gradient information (textures/Map.png), and we also create the dimensions of the map (width, depth, and height—which is how high the white spaces will be compared to the black spaces). The light parts of the map will create high points and the dark ones will create low points. The Map.png texture provides an example terrain map, which is converted into a three-dimensional surface. We also specify divx and divy, which determines how much detail of the terrain map is used (how many points from the terrain map are used to create the elevation surface). Finally, ntiles specifies that the texture used will be scaled to fit 20 times across the surface. Within the main DISPLAY.loop_running() section, we will control the camera, draw ElevationMap, respond to inputs, and limit movements in our space. As before, we use an InputEvents object to capture mouse movements and translate them to control the camera. We will also use inputs.key_state() to determine if W, S, R, and T have been pressed, which allow us to move forward, backwards, as well as rise up and down. To ensure that we do not fall through the ElevationMap object when we move over it, we can use mymap.calcHeight() to provide us with the height of the terrain at a specific location (x,y,z). We can either follow the ground by ensuring the camera is set to equal this, or fly through the air by just ensuring that we never go below it. When we detect that we are on the ground, we ensure that we remain on the ground until we press R to rise again. Summary In this article, we created a 3D world by covering how to define landscapes, the use of elevation maps, and the script required to respond to particular inputs and control movements in a space. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Testing Your Speed [Article] Pulse width modulator [Article] Web Scraping with Python [Article]
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Packt
20 Mar 2014
5 min read
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Testing Your Speed

Packt
20 Mar 2014
5 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) Creating the game controller In order to design a controller, we first need to know what sort of game is going to be played. I am going to explain how to make a game where the player is told a letter, and he/she has to press the button of that letter as quickly as possible. They then are told about another letter. The player has to hit as many buttons correctly as they can in a 30 second time limit. There are many ways in which this game can be varied; instead of ordering the player to press a particular button, the game could ask the player a multiple-choice question, and instead of colors, the buttons could be labeled with Yes, No, Maybe or different colors. You could give the player multiple commands at once, and make sure that he/she presses all the buttons in the right order. It would even be possible to make a huge controller and treat it as more of a board game. I will leave the game design up to you, but I recommend that you follow the instructions in this article until the end, and then change things to your liking once you know how everything works. The controller base So now that we know how the game is going to be played, it's time to design the controller. This is what my design looks like with four different letters: Make sure each button area is at least a little bigger than a paper clip, as these are what the buttons will be made of. I recommend a maximum of eight buttons. Draw your design on to the card, decorate it however you like, and then cut it out. Adding buttons Now for each button, we need to perform the following steps: Poke two small holes in the card, roughly 3 cm apart (or however long your paper clips are), as shown in the following figure. Use a sharp pencil or a pair of scissors to do this. Push a paper fastener through each hole and open them out, as shown in the following figures: Wrap a paper clip around the head of one of the fasteners, and (if necessary) bend it so that it grips the fastener tightly, as shown in the following figure: Bend the other end of the paper clip up very slightly, so it doesn't touch the second fastener unless you press down on it, as shown in the following figure: Turn the card over and tape one leg of each fastener in place, making sure that they don't touch, as shown in the following figure: Tape a length of wire to each of the two remaining legs of the fasteners. The ends of the wires should be exposed metal so that electricity can flow through the wire, paper fastener, and paper clip (as shown in the following figure). You may like to delay this step until later, when you have a better idea of how long the wire should be. Connecting to the Raspberry Pi Now that the controller is ready, it's time to connect it to the Raspberry Pi. One of the things that distinguishes the Raspberry Pi from a normal computer is its set of general purpose input/output (GPIO) pins. These are the 26 pins at the top-left corner of the Raspberry Pi, just above the logo. As the name suggests, they can be used for any purpose, and are capable of both sending and receiving signals. The preceding figure shows what each of the pins does. In order to create a (useful) circuit, we need to connect one of the power pins to one of the ground pins, with some sort of electrical component in between. The GPIO pins are particularly useful because we can make them behave like either power or ground pins, and they can also detect what they're connected to. Note that there are two versions of the pin numbering system. You will almost certainly have a revision 2 Raspberry Pi. The revision 2 board has two mounting holes, while the revision 1 board has none. (These holes are surrounded by metal and are large enough to put a screw through. It's easy to spot them if they're there.) It is safest to simply not use any of the pins that have different numbers in different revisions. To connect your controller to the Raspberry Pi, connect one wire from each button to a 3V3 Power pin, and each of the remaining wires to a different GPIO pin (one with GPIO in its name as in the previous figure). In my example, I will use pins 22, 23, 24, and 25. Everything is now connected as shown in the following figure: Summary In this article, we used the Python programming language to create a game. We created an electronic circuit to act as the game controller, and used code to detect when the buttons were being pressed. We learned the basics of the Python language, and saw how separating the code into multiple functions makes it more flexible and easier to manage. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Installing MAME4All (Intermediate) [Article] Creating a file server (Samba) [Article] Clusters, Parallel Computing, and Raspberry Pi – A Brief Background [Article]
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Packt
17 Feb 2014
11 min read
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Making the Unit Very Mobile – Controlling the Movement of a Robot with Legs

Packt
17 Feb 2014
11 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) The following is an image of a finished project: Even though you've made your robot mobile by adding wheels or tracks, this mobile platform will only work well on smooth, flat surfaces. Often, you'll want your robot to work in environments where the path is not smooth or flat; perhaps you'll even want your robot to go up stairs or around curbs. In this article, you'll learn how to attach your board, both mechanically and electrically, to a platform with legs so that your projects can be mobile in many more environments. Robots that can walk! What could be more amazing than that? In this article, we will cover the following topics: Connecting Raspberry Pi to a two-legged mobile platform using a servo motor controller Creating a program in Linux so that you can control the movement of the two-legged mobile platform Making your robot truly mobile by adding voice control Gathering the hardware In this article, you'll need to add a legged platform to make your project mobile. For a legged robot, there are a lot of choices for hardware. Some are completely assembled, others require some assembly, and you may even choose to buy the components and construct your own custom mobile platform. Also I'm going to assume that you don't want to do any soldering or mechanical machining yourself, so let's look at several choices of hardware that are available completely assembled or can be assembled using simple tools (a screwdriver and/or pliers). One of the simplest legged mobile platforms is one that has two legs and four servo motors. The following is an image of this type of platform: We'll use this legged mobile platform in this article because it is the simplest to program and the least expensive, requiring only four servos. To construct this platform, you must purchase the parts and then assemble them yourself. Find the instructions and parts list at http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build112.htm. Another easy way to get all the mechanical parts (except servos) is by purchasing a biped robot kit with six DOF (degrees of freedom). This will contain the parts needed to construct your four-servo biped. These six DOF bipeds can be purchased on eBay or at http://www.robotshop.com/2-wheeled-development-platforms-1.html. You'll also need to purchase the servo motors. Servo motors are designed to move at specific angles based on the control signals that you send. For this type of robot, you can use standard-sized servos. I like the Hitec HS-311 or HS-322 for this robot. They are inexpensive but powerful enough in operations. You can get them on Amazon or eBay. The following is an image of an HS-311 servo: You'll need a mobile power supply for Raspberry Pi. I personally like the 5V cell phone rechargeable batteries that are available at almost any place that supplies cell phones. Choose one that comes with two USB connectors; you can use the second port to power your servo controller. The mobile power supply shown in the following image mounts well on the biped hardware platform: You'll also need a USB cable to connect your battery to Raspberry Pi. You should already have one of those. Now that you have the mechanical parts for your legged mobile platform, you'll need some hardware that will turn the control signals from your Raspberry Pi into voltage levels that can control the servo motors. Servo motors are controlled using a signal called PWM. For a good overview of this type of control, see http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_RC_Servos_Works/ or https://www.ghielectronics.com/docs/18/pwm. You can find tutorials that show you how to control servos directly using Raspberry Pi's GPIO (General Purpose Input/Output) pins, for example, those at http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-16-channel-servo-driver-with-raspberry-pi/ and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddlDgUymbxc. For ease of use, I've chosen to purchase a servo controller that can talk over a USB and control the servo motor. These controllers protect my board and make controlling many servos easy. My personal favorite for this application is a simple servo motor controller utilizing a USB from Pololu that can control six servo motors—the Micro Maestro 6-Channel USB Servo Controller (Assembled). The following is an image of the unit: Make sure you order the assembled version. This piece of hardware will turn USB commands into voltage levels that control your servo motors. Pololu makes a number of different versions of this controller, each able to control a certain number of servos. Once you've chosen your legged platform, simply count the number of servos you need to control and choose a controller that can control that many servos. In this article, we will use a two-legged, four-servo robot, so I will illustrate the robot using the six-servo version. Since you are going to connect this controller to Raspberry Pi via USB, you'll also need a USB A to mini-B cable. You'll also need a power cable running from the battery to your servo controller. You'll want to purchase a USB to FTDI cable adapter that has female connectors, for example, the PL2303HX USB to TTL to UART RS232 COM cable available on amazon.com. The TTL to UART RS232 cable isn't particularly important, other than that the cable itself provides individual connectors to each of the four wires in a  USB cable. The following is an image of the cable: Now that you have all the hardware, let's walk through a quick tutorial of how a two-legged system with servos works and then some step-by-step instructions to make your project walk. Connecting Raspberry Pi to the mobile platform using a servo controller Now that you have a legged platform and a servo motor controller, you are ready to make your project walk! Before you begin, you'll need some background on servo motors. Servo motors are somewhat similar to DC motors. However, there is an important difference: while DC motors are generally designed to move in a continuous way, rotating 360 degrees at a given speed, servo motors are generally designed to move at angles within a limited set. In other words, in the DC motor world, you generally want your motors to spin at a continuous rotation speed that you control. In the servo world, you want to control the movement of your motor to a specific position. For more information on how servos work, visit http://www.seattlerobotics.org/guide/servos.html or http://www.societyofrobots.com/actuators_servos.shtml. Connecting the hardware To make your project walk, you first need to connect the servo motor controller to the servos. There are two connections you need to make: the first is to the servo motors and the second is to the battery holder. In this section, you'll connect your servo controller to your PC or Linux machine to check to see whether or not everything is working. The steps for that are as follows: Connect the servos to the controller. The following is an image of your two-legged robot and the four different servo connections: In order to be consistent, let's connect your four servos to the connections marked 0 through 3 on the controller using the following configurations: 0: Left foot 1: Left hip 2: Right foot 3: Right hip The following is an image of the back of the controller; it will show you where to connect your servos: Connect these servos to the servo motor controller as follows: The left foot to the 0 to the top connector, the black cable to the outside (-) The left hip to the 1 connector, the black cable out The right foot to the 2 connector, the black cable out The right hip to the 3 connector, the black cable out See the following image indicating how to connect servos to the controller: Now you need to connect the servo motor controller to your battery. You'll use the USB to FTDI UART cable; plug the red and black cables into the power connector on the servo controller, as shown in the following image: Configuring the software Now you can connect the motor controller to your PC or Linux machine to see whether or not you can talk to it. Once the hardware is connected, you can use some of the software provided by Polulu to control the servos. It is easiest to do this using your personal computer or Linux machine. The steps to do so are as follows: Download the Polulu software from http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J40/3.a and install it based on the instructions on the website. Once it is installed, run the software; you should see the window shown in the following screenshot: You will first need to change the Serial mode configuration in Serial Settings, so select the Serial Settings tab; you should see the window shown in the following screenshot: Make sure that USB Chained is selected; this will allow you to connect to and control the motor controller over the USB. Now go back to the main screen by selecting the Status tab; now you can turn on the four servos. The screen should look as shown in the following screenshot: Now you can use the sliders to control the servos. Enable the four servos and make sure that the servo 0 moves the left foot, 1 the left hip, 2 the right foot, and 3 the right hip. You've checked the motor controllers and the servos and you'll now connect the motor controller to Raspberry Pi to control the servos from there. Remove the USB cable from the PC and connect it to Raspberry Pi. The entire system will look as shown in the following image: Let's now talk to the motor controller by downloading the Linux code from Pololu at http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J40/3.b. Perhaps the best way to do this is by logging on to Raspberry Pi using vncserver and opening a VNC Viewer window on your PC. To do this, log in to your Raspberry Pi using PuTTY and then type vncserver at the prompt to make sure vncserver is running. Then, perform the following steps: On your PC, open the VNC Viewer application, enter your IP address, and then click on Connect. Then, enter the password that you created for the vncserver; you should see the Raspberry Pi viewer screen, which should look as shown in the following screenshot: Open a Firefox browser window and go to http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J40/3.b. Click on the Maestro Servo Controller Linux Software link. You will need to download the file maestro_linux_100507.tar.gz to the Download directory. You can also use wget to get this software by typing wget http://www.pololu.com/file/download/maestro-linux-100507.tar.gz?file_id=0J315 in a terminal window. Go to your Download directory, move it to your home directory by typing mv maestro_linux_100507.tar.gz .. and then you can go back to your home directory. Unpack the file by typing tar –xzfv maestro_linux_011507.tar.gz. This will create a directory called maestro_linux. Go to that directory by typing cd maestro_linux and then type ls. You should see the output as shown in the following screenshot: The document README.txt will give you explicit instructions on how to install the software. Unfortunately, you can't run MaestroControlCenter on your Raspberry Pi. Our version of windowing doesn't support the graphics, but you can control your servos using the UscCmd command-line application. First, type ./UscCmd --list and you should see the following screenshot: The unit sees your servo controller. If you just type ./UscCmd, you can see all the commands you could send to your controller. When you run this command, you can see the result as shown in the following screenshot: Notice that you can send a servo a specific target angle, although if the target angle is not within range, it makes it a bit difficult to know where you are sending your servo. Try typing ./UscCmd --servo 0, 10. The servo will most likely move to its full angle position. Type ./UscCmd – servo 0, 0 and it will stop the servo from trying to move. If you haven't run the Maestro Controller tool and set the Serial Settings setting to USB Chained, your motor controller may not respond.
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06 Feb 2014
6 min read
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Bitcoins – Pools and Mining

Packt
06 Feb 2014
6 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) Installing Bitcoind Bitcoind is the software that connects you to other nodes in the network. There is no single point of failure, and the more nodes there are the faster and more secure the network becomes. Peers are rewarded with a transaction fee for the first validation of a transaction and are assigned randomly. After installing Bitcoind by using the following command, we have to synchronize it with the network, which means downloading millions of transactions exceeding a gigabyte in size to your Pi. sudo apt-get install bitcoind Before running the background daemon, you need to consider changing the data directory as the database files can take up many gigabytes of space. Mount a new storage place and always start Bitcoind with the following line: bitcoind –datadir /mnt/HDD/bitcoin –daemon After a few minutes, you can type in the following basic commands. You will need to wait until the entire block chain data is downloaded before you can do anything useful. During this time, the Pi might become less responsive, use a lot of bandwidth, and create a large amount of data in the data directory. This can take up to 12 hours. bitcoind getinfobitcoind getblockcount If you already have most of the block chain data downloaded on another computer, you can just copy all the data to the Pi. You can even have the same wallet and addresses in both locations. It is not recommended though, as that means it's twice as easy for hackers to get your wallet. Always encrypt your wallet with a very strong password and keep the password and wallet backup in a safe, offline place—like CDs or USB drives. If you lose the password, you lose access to the wallet, forever. Bitcoin wallet You need to generate addresses where other people can send you funds. Theoretically, you can generate an unlimited number of addresses, but practically managing all those addresses would become difficult. Bitcoin, by default, allows you to have a hundred addresses. You always get a default wallet address, which counts as the first address, and this address will receive network fees if you process any transactions for the first time. Cryptocurrency transactions cannot be reversed. Sending coins to the incorrect address means your coins will be lost forever. On the other hand, it also protects you if you are receiving coins from somebody else, as they cannot reverse the transaction. These addresses are globally unique, and can never be generated by anybody else in the universe or beyond it. It can get stolen by hackers or viruses, though. Imagine losing your wallet in real life. Unless a kind person returns it to you, the contents of that wallet will be lost forever. You can back up your wallet file, but you should store it on any two USB flash drives or CDs, and store it in a safety deposit box at home or in the bank. You should never be tempted to copy your wallet to any kind of online storage or backup services, especially if it's unencrypted. Creating a Bitcoin address These examples will work with the command line, as you can re-use them to display data on your web server. All online wallets use the Bitcoind API to generate addresses and manage your wallet. As a word of warning, you should never use online wallet services as almost all of them have been hacked, resulting in massive numbers of coins getting stolen. You can download the Bitcoin-QT client and run it in X if you prefer an easy way to manage your wallet. The following command lines will create a new receiving address and then list all your addresses: bitcoind getnewaddressbitcoind listaccounts Receiving Bitcoins As long as you know your address, people can send you Bitcoins. You do not need to have Bitcoind running all the time as the transactions are processes and are stored in the network. It is just very important to keep a backup of your wallet.dat file if you want to send the Bitcoins somewhere else, like an online exchange. Sending Bitcoins As long as you have coins in your wallet, you can easily send coins to another address by using the sendtoaddress command followed by the address and the amount. Here is an example sending 0.01 Bitcoins to the author's tip jar: bitcoind sendtoaddress 126HA8L1dP7fr7ECu2oEMtz6JpDRnzqp9N 0.01 You will get a response, which is a transaction ID. If you do not, the transaction has failed. You need to have at least 0.0001 Bitcoins reserved for the transaction fees. If you are sending large amounts of coins, this transaction fee will also become more expensive. The value of Bitcoins In July 2010, the value of Bitcoin was below 1 USD. Investing in Bitcoins was very controversial and a huge risk, since it was difficult to predict if the currency would be accepted or rejected by the community. As of writing this article, the Bitcoin value has exceeded 1100 USD. You can search the Internet and find interesting articles on early adopters mining Bitcoins, or buying a few hundred dollars and leaving their wallets lying around. Just like one person in the UK who threw away his hard drive with 7500 BTC stored on it. After going public, thousands of people flocked to the public dump ground to search for the hard drive. Other stories include a student who invested a few hundred dollars in 2010, and sold them for hundreds of thousands of dollars. With such large amounts, it is important to consult your local TAX authority or council. The trend seems to be that the more people find out about Bitcoins and the more media publicity it gets, the higher the value of the currency rises. This also looks like it applies to alternative currencies such as Litecoin. Summary We have seen what Bitcoin is. We have seen what are the uses of Bitcoins and also it's value. We have also seen how to send and receive Bitcoins. I hope this has given you a better idea about what Bitcoins really are. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Clusters, Parallel Computing, and Raspberry Pi – A Brief Background [Article] Creating a file server (Samba) [Article] Our First Project – A Basic Thermometer [Article]
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20 Dec 2013
10 min read
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Making the Unit Very Mobile - Controlling Legged Movement

Packt
20 Dec 2013
10 min read
(for more resources related to this topic, see here.) Mission briefing We've covered creating robots using a wheeled/track base. In this article, you will be introduced to some of the basics of servo motors and using the BeagleBone Black to control the speed and direction of your legged platform. Here is an image of a finished project: Why is it awesome? Even though you've learned to make your robot mobile by adding wheels or tracks, this mobile platform will only work well on smooth, flat surfaces. Often, you'll want your robot to work in environments where it is not smooth or flat; perhaps, you'll even want your robot to go upstairs or over curbs. In this article, you'll learn how to attach your board, both mechanically and electrically, to a platform with legs, so your projects can be mobile in many more environments. Robots that can walk: what could be more amazing than that? Your objectives In this article, you will learn: Connecting the BeagleBone Black to a mobile platform using a servo controller Creating a program in Linux to control the movement of the mobile platform Making your mobile platform truly mobile by issuing voice commands   Mission checklist In this article, you'll need to add a legged platform to make your project mobile. So, here is your parts' list: A legged robot: There are a lot of choices. As before, some are completely assembled, others have some assembly required, and you may even choose to buy the components and construct your own custom mobile platform. Also, as before, I'm going to assume that you don't want to do any soldering or mechanical machining yourself, so let's look at a several choices that are available completely assembled or can be assembled by simple tools (screwdriver and/or pliers). One of the easiest legged mobile platforms is one that has two legs and four servo motors. Here is an image of this type of platform: You'll use this platform in this article because it is the simplest to program and because it is the least expensive, requiring only four servos. To construct this platform, you must purchase the parts and then assemble it yourself. Find the instructions and parts list at http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build112.htm. Another easy way to get all the mechanical parts (except servos) is to purchase a biped robot kit with six degrees of freedom (DOF). This will contain the parts needed to construct your four-servo biped. These six DOF bipeds can be purchased by searching eBay or by going to http://www.robotshop.com/2-wheeled-development-platforms-1.html. You'll also need to purchase the servo motors. For this type of robot, you can use standard size servos. I like the Hitec HS-311 or HS-322 for this robot. They are inexpensive but powerful enough. You can get those on Amazon or eBay. Here is an image of an HS-311: You'll need a mobile power supply for the BeagleBone Black. Again, I personally like the 5V cell phone rechargeable batteries that are available almost anywhere that supplies cell phones. Choose one that comes with two USB connectors, just in case you want to also use the powered USB hub. This one mounts well on the biped HW platform: You'll also need a USB cable to connect your battery to the BeagleBone Black, but you can just use the cable supplied with the BeagleBone Black. If you want to connect your powered USB hub, you'll need a USB to DC jack adapter for that as well. You'll also need a way to connect your batteries to the servo motor controller. Here is an image of a four AA battery holder, available at most electronics parts stores or from Amazon: Now that you have the mechanical parts for your legged mobile platform, you'll need some HW that will take the control signals from your BeagleBone Black and turn them into a voltage that can control the servo motors. Servo motors are controlled using a control signal called PWM. For a good overview of this type of control, see http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_RC_Servos_Works/ or https://www.ghielectronics.com/docs/18/pwm. You can find tutorials that show you how to control servos directly using the BeagleBone Black's GPIO pins, for example, here at http://learn.adafruit.com/controlling-a-servowith-a-beaglebone-black/overview and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gv3gWtoBWQ. For ease of use I chose to purchase a motor controller that can talk over USB and control the servo motor. These protect my board and make controlling many servos easy. My personal favorite for this application is a simple servo motor controller utilizing USB from Pololu that can control 18 servo motors. Here is an image of the unit: Again, make sure you order the assembled version. This piece of HW will turn USB commands into voltage that control your servo motors. Pololu makes a number of different versions of this controller, each able to control a certain number of servos. Once you've chosen your legged platform, simply count the number of servos you need to control, and chose the controller that can control that number of servos. One advantage of the 18 servo controller is the ease of connecting power to the unit via screw type connectors. Since you are going to connect this controller to your BeagleBone Black via USB, you'll also need a USB A to mini-B cable. Now that you have all the HW, let's walk through a quick tutorial on how a two-legged system with servos works and then some step-by-step instructions to make your project walk. Connecting the BeagleBone Black to the mobile platform using a servo controller Now that you have a legged platform and a servo motor controller, you are ready to make your project walk! Prepare for lift off Before you begin, you'll need some background on servo motors. Servo motors are somewhat similar to DC motors; however, there is an important difference. While DC motors are generally designed to move in a continuous way—rotating 360 degrees at a given speed—servos are generally designed to move within a limited set of angles. In other words, in the DC motor world, you generally want your motors to spin with continuous rotation speed that you control. In the servo world, you want your motor to move to a specific position that you control. Engage thrusters To make your project walk, you first need to connect the servo motor controller to the servos. There are two connections you need to make: the first to the servo motors, the second to the battery holder. In this section, you'll connect your servo controller to your PC to check to see if everything is working. First, connect the servos to the controller. Here is an image of your two-legged robot, and the four different servo connections: In order to be consistent, let's connect your four servos to the connections marked 0 through 3 on the controller using this configuration: 0 – left foot, 1 – left hip, 2 – right foot, and 3 – right hip. Here is an image of the back of the controller; it will tell you where to connect your servos: Connect these to the servo motor controller like this: the left foot to the top O connector, black cable to the outside (–), the left hip to the 1 connector, black cable out, right foot to the 2 connector, black cable out, and right hip to the 3 connector, black cable out. See the following image for a clearer description: Now you need to connect the servo motor controller to your battery. If you are using a standard 4 AA battery holder, connect it to the two green screw connectors, the black cable to the outside, and the red cable to the inside, as shown in the following image: Now you can connect the motor controller to your PC to see if you can talk with it.   Objective complete – mini debriefing Now that the HW is connected, you can use some SW provided by Polulu to control the servos. It is easiest to do this using your personal computer. First, download the Polulu SW from http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J40/3.a and install it based on the instructions on the website. Once it is installed, run the SW, and you should see the following screen: You first will need to change the configuration on Serial Settings, so select the Serial Settings tab, and you should see a screen as shown in the following screenshot: Make sure that the USB Chained option is selected; this will allow you to connect and control the motor controller over USB. Now go back to the main screen by selecting the Status tab, and now you can turn on the four servos. The screen should look like the following screenshot: Now you can use the sliders to control the servos. Make sure that the servo 0 moves the left foot, 1 the left hip, 2 the right foot, and 3 the right hip. You've checked the motor controllers and the servos, and you'll now connect the motor controller up to the BeagleBone Black control the servos from it. Remove the USB cable from the PC and connect it into the powered USB hub. The entire system will look like the following image: Let's now talk to the motor controller by downloading the Linux code from Pololu at http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J40/3.b. Perhaps, the best way is to log in to your Beagle Bone Black by using vncserver and a vncviewer window on your PC. To do this, log in to your BeagleBone Black using PuTTY, then type vncserver at the prompt to make sure vncserver is running. On your PC open the VNC Viewer application, enter your IP address, then press connect. Then enter your password that you created for the vncserver, and you should see the BeagleBone Black Viewer screen, which should look like this: Open a Firefox browser window and go to http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J40/3.b. Click on the Maestro Servo Controller Linux Software link. You will download the file maestro_linux_100507.tar.gz to the Download directory. Go to your download directory, move this file to your home directory by typing mv maestro_linux_100507.tar.gz .. and then you can go back to your home directory. Unpack the file by typing tar –xzfv maestro_linux_011507.tar.gz. This will create a directory called maestro_linux. Go to that directory by typing cd maestro_linux and then type ls. You should see something like this: The document README.txt will give you explicit instructions on how to install the SW. Unfortunately you can't run MaestroControlCenter on your BeagleBone Black. Our version of windowing doesn't support the graphics, but you can control your servos using the UscCmd command-line application. First type ./UscCmd --list and you should see the following: The unit sees your servo controller. If you just type ./UscCmd you can see all the commands you could send to your controller: Notice you can send a servo a specific target angle, although the target is not in angle values, so it makes it a bit difficult to know where you are sending your servo. Try typing ./UscCmd --servo 0, 10. The servo will most likely move to its full angle position. Type ./UscCmd --servo 0, 0 and it will stop the servo from trying to move. In the next section, you'll write some SW that will translate your angles to the commands that the servo controller will want to see. If you didn't run the Windows version of Maestro Controller and set the serial settings to USB Chained, your motor controller may not respond.
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Packt
19 Dec 2013
4 min read
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Pulse width modulator

Packt
19 Dec 2013
4 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) PWM allows us to drive a certain pin to on and off at desired frequency and duty cycle. This way we can pulse our LEDs much faster than our eyes can react, and while we only see a dimmer or a brighter LED, if one would look at it with a high speed camera, one would see that the LED still only turns on or off. Our eyes just perceive this differently. There are three basic terms you need to understand about PWM: Frequency: This defines how many full on/off "cycles" are generated in a second Period: This defines how long one complete pulse cycle takes Duty cycle: This specifies the time the signal is high during one full period Think about the following figure: In the preceding figure, we have PWM generating first a 50 percent duty cycle and then dropping to 25 percent. The effective time the LED spends as on and off can be controlled with very high precision, and this way we can achieve smooth brightness fluctuations. Let's try doing just that. First, we will design a schematic with two LEDs that are connected to two different PWMs. Nothing fancy here either really, we have a current limiting resistor after the LEDs and that's it. This time we will be using input from both headers, as PWM1 and PWM2 are located on P9 and P8, respectively. Our third and last program in this article will be called racing_PWMs.py. As usual, we need to include the Adafruit library here as well, this time the PWM part of it: import Adafruit_BBIO.PWM as PWM When you initialize a PWM, you can initialize it with two to four parameters listed as follows: Channel (header pin) Duty (as in percent, 0-100) Frequency (periods in a second, default is 2000) And polarity (0 or 1. With this you can invert the duty cycle, default is 0) So, we will initialize both our channels: PWM.start("P9_14", 50, 100) #50% duty and 100hz cycle PWM.start("P8_13", 50, 100) At this point, the LEDs will light up, and now we can start changing our duty cycle in a loop to adjust the average voltage. Full listing of racing_PWMs.py is as follows: #!/usr/bin/python import time import Adafruit_BBIO.PWM as PWM sleep_time=0.005 #The lower the value the faster the activity PWM.start("P9_14", 50, 100) #50% duty and 100hz cycle PWM.start("P8_13", 50, 100) while True: for i in range(100,1, -1): PWM.set_duty_cycle("P9_14", i) # Dimming PWM.set_duty_cycle("P8_13", abs(i-100)+1) # Getting brighter time.sleep(sleep_time) for i in range(1, 100): PWM.set_duty_cycle("P9_14", i) PWM.set_duty_cycle("P8_13", abs(i-100)+1 ) time.sleep(sleep_time) When you run the program, you should see both LEDs racing (blinking) in opposite phases. As you see, the Adafruit BBIO library is extremely useful and easy to use. And so far we have only used two functionalities it provides. Actually, the library also supports easy access to SPI and I2C communication and Analog to Digital Converter(ADC) as well. Summary In this article we went through foundations of input and output on a very basic level. We talked about the general purpose I/O pins, and how they can be used to control external components, such as LEDs or buttons. As you must have gathered already, with proper application of voltage and care, we can operate many of the basic electronic components. You should now feel comfortable with the basic building blocks that can help you build some external inputs and outputs to your Beagle programs. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Home Security by BeagleBone [Article] Introducing BeagleBoard [Article] Viewing on Mobile Devices [Article]
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Packt
13 Dec 2013
7 min read
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Home Security by BeagleBone

Packt
13 Dec 2013
7 min read
(For more resources related to this topic, see here.) One of the best kept secrets of the security and access control industry is just how simple the monitoring hardware actually is. It is the software that runs on the monitoring hardware that makes it seem cool. The original BeagleBone or the new BeagleBone Black, have all the computing power you need to build yourself an extremely sophisticated access control, alarm panel, home automation, and network intrusion detection system. All for less than a year's worth of monitoring charges from your local alarm company! Don't get me wrong, monitored alarm systems have their place. Your elderly mother, for example, or your convenience store in a bad part of town. There is no substitute for a live human on the other end of the line. That said, if you are reading this, you are probably a builder or a hobbyist with all the skills required to do it yourself. BeagleBone is used as the development platform. The modular design of the alarm system allows the hardware to be used with any of the popular single board computers available in the market today. Any single board computer with at least eight accessible input/output pins will work. For example, the Arduino series of boards, the Gumstix line of hardware, and many others. The block diagram of the alarm system is shown in the following diagram: Block Diagram The adapter board is what is used to connect the single board computer to the alarm system. The adapter board comes with connectors for adding two more zones and four more outputs. Instructions are provided for adding zone inputs and panel outputs to the software. An alarm zone can be thought of as having two properties. The first is the actual hardware sensors connected to the panel. The second is the physical area being protected by the sensors. There are three or four types of sensors found in home and small business alarm systems. The first and most common is the magnetic door or window contact. The magnet is attached to the moving part (the window or the door) and the contacts are attached to the frame of the door or window. When the door or window is opened past a certain point the magnet can no longer hold the contacts closed, and they open to signal an alarm. The second most common sensor is the active sensor. The PIR or passive infrared motion sensor is installed in the corner of a room in order to detect the motion of a body which is warmer than the ambient temperature. Two other common sensors are temperature rise and CO detectors. These can both be thought of as life saving detectors. They are normally on a separate zone so that they are not disabled when the alarm system is not armed. The temperature rise detector senses a sudden rise in the ambient temperature and is intended to replace the old ionization type smoke detectors. No more burnt toast false alarms! The CO detector is used to detect the presence of Carbon Monoxide, which is a byproduct of combustion. Basically, faulty oil or gas furnaces and wood or coal burning stoves are the main culprit. Temperature Rise or CO Detector Physical zones are the actual physical location that the sensors are protecting. For example "ground floor windows" could be a zone. Other typical zones defended by a PIR could be garage or rear patio. In the latter case, outdoor PIR motion sensors are available at about twice the price of an indoor model. Depending on your climate, you may be able to install an indoor sensor outside, provided that it is sheltered from rain. The basic alarm system comes with four zone inputs and four alarm outputs. The outputs are just optically isolated phototransistors. So you can use them for anything you like. The first output is reserved in software for the siren, but you can do whatever you like with the other outputs. All four outputs are accessible from the alarm system web page, so you can remotely turn on or off any number of things. For example, you can use the left over three outputs to turn on and off lawn sprinklers, outdoor lighting or fountains and pool pumps. That's right. The alarm system has its own built in web server which provides you with access to the alarm system from anywhere with an internet connection. You could be on the other side of the world and if anything goes wrong, the alarm system will send you an e-mail telling you that something is wrong. Also, if you leave for the airport and forget to turn on or off the lights or lawn sprinkler, simply connect to the alarm system and correct the problem. You can also connect to the system via SSH or secure shell. This allows you to remotely run terminal applications on your BeagleBone. The alarm system, actually has very little to do so long as no alarms occur. The alarm system hardware generates an interrupt which is detected by the BeagleBone, so the BeagleBone spends most of its time idle. This is a waste of computing resources, so the system can also run network intrusion detection software. Not only can this alarm system protect you physical property, it can also keep your network safe as well. Can any local alarm system company claim that? Iptraf Iptraf is short for IP Traffic Monitor. This is a terminal-based program which monitors traffic on any of the interfaces connected to your network or the BeagleBone. My TraceRoute (mtr-0.85) Anyone who has ever used trace route on either Linux or Windows will know that it is used to find the path to a given IP address. MTR is a combination of trace route and ping in one single tool. Wavemon Wavemon is a simple ASCII text-based program that you can use to monitor your WiFi connections to the BeagleBone. Unlike the first two programs, Wavemon requires an Angstrom compatible WiFi adapter. In this case I used an AWUS036H wireless adapter. hcitool Bluetooth monitoring can be done in much the same way as WiFi monitoring; with hcitool. For example: hcitool scan will scan any visible Bluetooth devices in range. As with Wavemon, an external Bluetooth adapter is required. Your personal security system These are just some of the features of the security system you can build and customize for yourself. With advanced programming skills, you can create a security system with fingerprint ID access, that not only monitors and controls its physical surroundings but also the network that it is connected to. It can also provide asset tracking via RFID, barcode, or both; all for much less than the price of a commercial system. Not only that but you designed built and installed it. So tech support is free and should be very knowledgeable! Summary A block diagram of the alarm system is explained. The adapter board is what is used to connect the single board computer to the alarm system. The adapter board comes with connectors for adding two more zones and four more outputs. Instructions are provided for adding zone inputs and panel outputs to the software. Resources for Article: Further resources on this subject: Building a News Aggregating Site in Joomla! [Article] Breaching Wireless Security [Article] Building HTML5 Pages from Scratch [Article]
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